Starting a trip with plenty of anticipation and great trust in the travel company is always a good idea. This time, I was asked to create a journey focusing on wildlife sightings and quality accommodations. Animals were to take center stage, ideally the Big Five—or better yet, the Big Six, as we know them today. Additionally, the itinerary was to include rare bird species well-suited for photography.

Since the airplane breakfast didn’t exactly impress, I took the group to the Wilde Eend restaurant in Windhoek as our first stop. There, we enjoyed freshly pressed fruit juices and a delightful breakfast. By the way, my choice of cafes is heavily influenced by the quality of their coffee—a decision my guests would come to appreciate over the course of the trip.

Otjiwa roughly translates to “beautiful place.” And it truly lives up to its name! The Otjiwa Lodge captivates with an abundance of wildlife that visits the stunning lodge grounds and the nearby waterhole. But it was the upcoming Rhino tracking that would surprise my guests more than they could have imagined…

Following our local ranger in an orderly line, we encountered numerous Antelopes, came impressively close to Giraffes, and suddenly stood before a Rhino cow with her freshly born calf. I must note: beside their massive mothers, Rhino calves look a bit like small Warthogs.

On our way to another waterhole, we witnessed a true Rhino invasion. One after another, a total of 13 Rhinos emerged from the bush, approaching us within arm’s reach. While our ranger took a few steps back, he remained calm and quickly reassured us. This allowed us to marvel at these impressive animals up close—an experience that will stay with the guests for a long time.

The towering Termite mounds of the Fungus Termite deserved their own moment of attention. We spoke in detail about the lives and work of these fascinating insects, which form the foundation of life for numerous plants and animals in Namibia. Did you know these Termites cultivate their own fungus gardens and feed exclusively on dead wood? A truly admirable and useful species.

The price-to-value ratio of Okonjima Lodge, though in the premium range, immediately convinced us as soon as we sampled the excellent coffee from the two Jura machines, freely available to guests. To top it off, we enjoyed authentic Namibian Gin and Tonics from the distillery of the now world-famous Sandy le Roux—a true delight. Well-fueled, we set off on a locally guided game drive in an open jeep. Who can claim to have witnessed both mating Giraffes and Leopards in the throes of passion during an African safari? Leopards mate repeatedly over several days, every 15 minutes, accompanied by a loud, aggressive growl and a theatrical bite that concludes the encounter.

The next morning brought another game drive with Leopard sightings. While not as dramatic as the previous day, spotting two Brown Hyenas suddenly made everyone realise just how incredibly lucky we were. The smaller highlights of the avian world did not go unnoticed either: various species of Hornbill, Rüppell’s Parrots, Burnt-necked Eremomelas, Common Scimitarbill, and White-browed Sparrow-Weavers granted us brief yet delightful appearances. However, the standout was a rare Tree Pipit in the lodge garden—definitely a cause for celebration!

Another fascinating encounter was a Black-backed Jackal mother with her pups. We watched as she brought food back, regurgitated it, and the pups eagerly devoured it from her mouth. I took the opportunity to explain Namibia’s “four problem animals”: the Black-backed Jackal, Chacma Baboon, Rock Hyrax, and Caracal. For many, it was hard to imagine that these captivating animals also present significant challenges to farmers.

At this point, a little digression: approximately 44% of Namibia consists of farmland—about 6,400 farms that provide around 23% of the country’s jobs and support about 70% of the population. Communal areas cover 38% of the land, with the rest being national parks and urban regions. This interplay of agriculture, conservation, and sustainability sparked lively discussions within our group, enriching our experience even further.
Our next accommodation was the elegant Oberland Lodge, situated on the southern edge of Etosha National Park. The “wow factor” upon arrival was guaranteed: Mopane Trees framed the lodge grounds, their leaves alive with Willow Warblers and Yellow-breasted Apalis, while Bare-cheeked Babblers chattered noisily nearby. At the waterhole, White Rhinos, Springboks, Kudus, and Blue Wildebeests shared the refreshing water. Overseeing it all was a pair of Tawny Eagles, attentively observing the bustling activity. Cocktails were served—this time with blueberries—faces lit up with delight, and a breathtaking sunset rounded off the moment. What more could one ask for?

In Etosha National Park, we were treated to an abundance of Lions: twelve in total, including mothers with cubs, emerged from the bush and made their way toward the waterhole. I positioned the vehicle so the Lions approached us head-on, perfect for capturing dramatic photos. Our guests enthusiastically took full advantage, snapping away through the open roof hatch.

A key topic here was the Plains Zebras, particularly the Equus quagga burchellii subspecies found in Etosha. These Zebras are notable for their pale legs and pronounced shadow striping. Later in the journey, in northeastern Namibia, we would compare them to the Equus quagga chapmanii subspecies, which lacks—or almost lacks—shadow striping and has boldly striped legs.

We especially enjoyed the park’s western section, where wildlife sightings were abundant. The bumpy gravel roads of the central region were less delightful, but the Goas waterhole made up for it. There, we were rewarded with a rare sighting of a Yellow Wagtail, a vagrant visitor, and a Rufous-eared Warbler perched in the “fish-poison bean” (Mundulea sericea), a plant traditionally used to stun fish by poisoning the water.

Another highlight was a Cheetah, whose relaxed demeanor suggested it wasn’t going anywhere anytime soon. I spotted it thanks to a herd of Gemsbok (Oryx gazella) intently gazing into a distant depression. We decided to take a detour and were rewarded with the sighting of a magnificent maned Lion. When we later returned, the Cheetah was still there, now resting in the shade of a tree—but on the opposite side of the road. We had missed its crossing! While I initially regretted not being more patient, Urs rightly pointed out that without the detour, we would have missed the Lion. A perfect blend of planning and luck—or perhaps just luck! 😊

At the idyllic Mushara Lodge, it was time to relax. After days filled with exciting experiences, the typical fatigue from all the impressions began to show in the guests, a phenomenon I often observe on such intense trips. From Black-faced Babblers to Red-capped Larks, all the target bird species were spotted. And as a grand finale, a female Leopard appeared, elegantly slinking between the now-congested vehicles. Thanks to my positioning, we were able to observe the animal both head-on and from the side as it passed us by. However, the joy was marred by the reckless behavior of a camper van owner, who repeatedly maneuvered his massive truck back and forth to allow his companion with her large lens to catch the supposed best angle. Such vehicles, particularly those operated by “shirtless drivers” (note, without even a shirt), should, in my opinion, be banned from national parks.

Since we had a long drive ahead to the northeastern Zambezi region, we took the afternoon to rest. By the pool, we were able to observe a Crown Duiker—the only Antelope known to also eat meat. Above us, a Yellow-breasted Apalis and a Paradise Flycatcher flitted through the branches of the Tambuti Trees. On the lawn in front of us, a Warthog mother grunted contentedly as she mowed the grass with her newly born piglets.

The Caprivi Strip, named after Count Leo von Caprivi and long regarded as a colonial relic, is now properly referred to as the Zambezi region. After a brief shopping stop in Grootfontein, we set off on the long drive to the Okavango—known here as Kavango.

Only those who have seen the White-backed Night Heron can understand why this Heron appears as if it were a small work of art—almost as if it had fallen into God’s makeup pot. An extremely rare bird, it is high on the wishlists of many birdwatchers. During an evening boat safari, we admired not only Crocodiles and a herd of Hippos but also the colorful Bee-eaters and that magical Night-Heron.

On the eastern bank of the Kavango, we witnessed a pride of Lions preparing for the night hunt, while a herd of Elephants quenched their thirst at the water’s edge. Unfortunately, the safari in Mahango National Park wasn’t as fruitful as expected. While we saw the usual species such as Chapman’s Zebras, Greater Kudus, Impalas, Lechwe Antelopes, and Reedbucks, we did manage to spot Buffalo and Waterbuck, but the hoped-for sightings of the Sable and Roan Antelopes never materialized.

In the afternoon, despite everyone wanting to relax a bit, I felt a certain restlessness. In Mahango Park, a yellow version of the Crimson-breasted Shrike had been spotted—formerly known as the “Imperial Bird” (though we’re not supposed to call it that anymore). The finder? Curt Ingo Sagell, the owner and superbirder of the Caprivi Houseboat Safaris Lodge on the Zambezi. That was exactly the bird I had been eager to photograph.

Suzi and Urs joined me, and we tried our luck. But despite patience and veeeery deep breaths, the magnificent bird eluded us. However, on the way back, we experienced something you don’t see every day: A heavy downpour filled the tire tracks with water, and suddenly Leopard-turtles emerged from the bushes to quench their thirst. It seemed as though these reptiles hadn’t had a drink in an entire year—imagine how thirsty they must have been! With their necks stretched out far, they drank and drank and drank. Witnessing this moment of sheer relief was simply wonderful.

Seeing impalas in the rain also has a charm of its own!

Sonni had longed to see the Popa Falls. I knew why—memories. Memories that, when asked about, inevitably brought tears to her eyes. We all sensed a certain sadness lingering in the air, stemming from the absence of a remarkable person. And yet, there was something positive, a quiet solace, that accompanied us all. But not everything needs to be written down.

Eventually, we headed to Nxoabaxa (I hope I’ve spelled that correctly), which means “White Sands.” A fantastic camp is currently being built there, one we’ll surely use more in the future. The view of the falls—or rather, the rapids—was enjoyed with Rock Shandy and cappuccino.

And then it happened: I was standing at the urinal, looking out the window. Right in front of me was a Levaillant’s cuckoo with a large butterfly in its beak! Without properly zipping up, I sprinted out of the restroom, grabbed my camera, took aim… and the creature flew off into the forest at the last second. Much to the great amusement of the guests.

Felix, the manager of Mahangu Lodge, convinced me to try a dinner cruise on the Kavango—a activity I was initially skeptical about. However, I must admit that it was a complete success. With excellent food and perfectly paired drinks, the atmosphere aboard was simply fantastic. Sometimes, you just have to let yourself be surprised by a party boat!

Fantastic birds are rare birds – there is always something magical about discovering the truly hidden species. The sweat-inducing march through the thick sand of the Miombo forest landscape of the Kalahari began with the search for a bird named after its habitat: the Souza’s Shrike. In Angola, then still a Portuguese colony, this bird was said to be more common. It was named after the Portuguese zoologist de Souza – the English name “Souza’s Shrike” references him. For passionate birders, it is one of the most coveted species.

We left early, and the fresh morning air was filled with the loud call of the Senegal Bushshrike and the delicate chirping of the Red-tailed Cisticola. Finally, we spotted a female and probably a juvenile Souza’s Shrike. With this success in hand, we continued our journey east towards the Kwando. Along the way, we encountered an Arnot’s Chat, the impressive Racket-tailed Roller, with its striking spoon-shaped tail, the first creaking Broadbilled Rollers, and – before we reached the unique Nambwa Tented Camp – the obligatory Green-capped Eremomelas.

The raised walkway leading to the main building of the lodge felt like a revelation. When I arrived late for the welcome talk due to luggage sorting, the group initially looked at me in silence. Shortly after, Urs, who appeared typically Swiss and serious, approached me. He told me his wife had tears in her eyes. For a moment, I thought she was dissatisfied and frantically considered how to correct this mistake. But then he added that these tears were from sheer joy over the atmosphere and the extraordinary accommodation here. This relieved me immensely, and the group’s carefree mood made me feel: nothing could go wrong from here on out.

In the afternoon, a game drive was scheduled. We had expected many Elephants at Horseshoe Bend, but had to settle for Baboons and a Buffalo herd at first. The mood changed abruptly when a Sitatunga became clearly visible – a rare antelope and an absolute “special.” Later, even a Sitatunga Bull appeared, a real gift from heaven. These animals usually hide deep in the reeds, rushes, and papyrus and are often only seen as fleeing shadows. But this time, we could admire him in all his splendor.

On the way back, with the sun almost setting, we experienced another highlight: Wild Dogs, lying right on the road. The excitement in the vehicle was palpable. The animals, also known as “Painted Dogs” because their fur looks as if painted by an artist, were busy eating the remains of an Impala. From up close, we were able to observe and photograph the complex hierarchy of the pack – an absolutely unforgettable experience!

In the evening, another tourist in the lodge approached us and asked about our sightings. When the topic of Wild Dogs came up, she turned around wordlessly and walked away. Jealousy! – apparently, it’s not only trophy-envy hunters who feel it, but also wildlife photographers.

The experience of a morning by an African river is perhaps as close to paradise as we can get. After breakfast – for me, it’s usually just coffee, but only if it’s good. Otherwise, it’s comfort food, and the Maybug guide figure gets fed: a big belly, thin legs, always crawling.

We then boarded the lodge boat, steered by the relaxed Beavon, who skillfully maneuvered us through the now very shallow waters of the Kwando. The benefit of an interest in birdwatching and botany is that even an extremely relaxed boat ride can be incredibly fascinating. So, we talked about the White-browed Pratincoles, the impressive tree Syzygium Cordatum (Waterberry), and how long Hippos can stay underwater – a whole six minutes.

Utterly relaxed—there’s a photo of it in the gallery—an African Jacana was foraging for food right in front of two medium-sized crocodiles. We were just waiting for one of the crocodiles to make a quick snap and turn the jacana into its next meal. But what do we know? I’ll tell you: we know absolutely nothing. The jacana continued to strut around completely at ease, right next to—and almost on top of—a deadly reptile, showing not the slightest trace of fear.

The afternoon agenda was clear: Sonja wanted to see Elephants! So, we set off early for Horseshoe Bend, a crescent-shaped lagoon of the Kwando, where Elephants often come to quench their thirst. The day before, a herd of Buffalo had rushed past us, loud and full of energy. Elephants, however, do it differently: they move silently. I positioned the vehicle between two main tracks, but behind a tree so we wouldn’t be in the way if a herd came. And that’s exactly what happened. I didn’t count, but it was probably over 73 Elephants, moving quietly, but swiftly, kicking up dust as they passed, heading straight for the water, some even crossing the river almost completely. It was a joy to watch the calves, playing and splashing.

Since it was a hot day, the Elephants first cooled their ears by wetting them and waving them vigorously. This “air conditioning” – after all, about 7 liters of blood flow through the ears every minute – lowers their blood temperature by 3 to 4 degrees. The ears account for about 20% of their skin surface and are essential for thermoregulation in these intelligent Pachyderms.

Such an experience was hard to top. The mood became relaxed, and I was able to unwind. I shared stories of Chacma Baboons, which – incredibly tourist-friendly and cheeky – perform one play after another, of the hooves of the Marsh Antelopes, and much more.

At dinner in the evening, emotions were high. That’s always how it is. Africa holds a mirror up to everyone, forcing thoughts to the ground of reality. Without intending to, one drifts into thoughts and misses people one doesn’t even know. But if you’ve recently lost a partner or family member, moments like these on a safari can overwhelm you and bring sharp pain.

A stop at the Green Basket Café was a must. While the Bronze Mannikins and Red-billed Firefinches splashed in the birdbath, we enjoyed the wonderful cappuccino from Namibia’s own Two Beards Coffee Roasters. The ladies had planned to buy woven palm leaf baskets – as companions for mushroom picking. Unfortunately, nothing suitable was available.

The African Broadbill is a recent discovery (within Namibia) by Chéni and Travis Langley, who run the Caprivi River Lodge. I dare say this lodge deserves the garden prize of the year, and their kitchen boasts a true gem of a chef – you can taste it in every meal. About two weeks ago, Chéni and Travis heard an unfamiliar, loud trill early one morning. The tiny bird lives up to its name: it not only trills astonishingly loud but also bounces like a rubber ball on a branch before performing a small, somersault-like loop, only to land in the exact same spot. Witnessing this courtship flight is utterly mesmerizing – it captures your attention entirely, leaving you wanting to see it over and over again.

We were worried we’d miss the show due to scheduling conflicts, but it turned out to be even better than we’d hoped. For weeks, only the male had been sighted – a sensation in birding circles. At 5:30 a.m., we crept into one of the last remaining patches of undisturbed forest. Even here, locals are systematically cutting down trees, dooming not only the wildlife but eventually themselves, as they depend on nature for survival. This is Africa.

Suddenly, the loud trill broke the morning silence, and Travis quickly pointed to the little gem. After a few attempts – the bird constantly flits to a new perch – Chéni became visibly excited and called out with joy. The female had arrived, and she had made her choice!

By the next day, the trilling had stopped, and we’re all now hoping for offspring. Overhead, the Eastern Nicator sang its distinct call – another extraordinary bird.

And so, the big question loomed: how can we protect this area? This topic fueled hours of conversation over coffee and beer. Many discussions, much understanding, plenty of anger, and countless ideas – yet no concrete solutions.

The radio later announced that the G20 summit had pledged to limit global warming to 1.5 degrees. Does that make us better? Are we truly civilised? It seems humanity remains hopelessly at the mercy of its own nature.

The border crossing into Botswana and then back into Namibia to reach the Kasika Floodplain went smoothly. Peter and Esther Visagie from the Zovu Lodge picked us up. We let the fresh breeze of the Chobe blow through our hair and, as always, enjoyed a Gin and Tonic as a welcome drink.

The boat trips are a true safari adventure. The Chobe is incredibly rich in wildlife. Anyone traveling to the Caprivi Strip without spending at least two days on the Chobe has definitely made a poor plan. As usual, we saw hundreds of Elephants, Buffalo, Hippos, Impalas, and Gazelles. The birdlife is endless. From the boat, you can get extremely close to animals in action – a paradise for wildlife photographers. Such moments undoubtedly rank among the top 10 wildlife experiences in Africa.

Gigantic Crocodiles, up to four meters long, lay lazily on the shore. The boats seemed to be of no concern to them – they know their power and strength. These prehistoric reptiles have hardly changed in the last 200 million years. They are perfectly adapted with their four-chambered heart, sophisticated hunting method, and even bony eyelids.

Yellow-billed and Red-billed Oxpeckers perched on Buffalo and Giraffes, while Water Thick-knees called loudly and the impressive Giant Kingfisher, Africa’s largest Kingfisher, offered great photo opportunities. As usual, Elephants swam through the river or bathed spectacularly close to the boat – wide-angle shot material.

An early start at 5 a.m. took me to Impalila Island, where I tested the birdlife for our birding tours with a local guide. The yield was fruitful: in addition to three Amethyst Sunbirds, I recorded exactly 78 more species. Simply lovely! Now I know exactly what I can offer my birders … until in the next 30 years, everyone else copies me. It’s getting tight. “Supermarket tourism” isn’t sleeping, and the big players are increasingly crowding into our niche markets. The “slavery” in Africa hasn’t ended – it’s just taken on a new form. Maybe I should switch to politics to protect my fellow citizens (just kidding).

Lions and Leopards are not uncommon on the shores of the Chobe. Although the group was already “sated” with Lions, the female contingent was not deterred from taking countless photos – from the Lioness at Elephant Bay to the magnificent maned Lion at Savannah Crossing. The scene was finally rounded off by a kitschy-beautiful backdrop: The sun sank behind drinking Giraffes, while Oxpeckers worked diligently on their necks. It doesn’t get more romantic than this!

There are accommodations that feel like home. The Zovu Elephant Lodge is one such place. For many years, our guests have come here, and it’s always a pleasure to experience the familiar “our home is your home” feeling. Peter and Esther Visagie run this small, charming lodge with a lot of personal dedication. What I particularly appreciate is the proximity to the vibrant life of the Chobe – the ideal starting point for adventures amid wildlife.

The drive to Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe went smoothly. At the border, I organized, of course for a small fee – we can’t say “bribe” anymore – a fixer who helped us cross into this country, once the wealthiest in Africa. Zimbabwe has its own unique charm. The people are open, friendly, helpful, and, as a lady in the group pointed out, “much faster.”

In Vic Falls, we stayed at the Nkosi Lodge. In my opinion, it’s the best guesthouse in town: small, neat, and – yep, you got it – fantastic cappuccino! While it’s a bit off the beaten path from the falls, the charm and peace more than make up for it.

In the afternoon, we set out to “make new friends” at the market – after all, who doesn’t enjoy hearing the phrase: “You are my friend, I give you good price”?

For dinner, we went to the Look-out Café, right on the impressive Batoka Gorge. There we enjoyed the view, and for the adventurous among us, crocodile even appeared on the menu.

The next morning, we had the obligatory waterfall program. While I was excited by the Red-faced Cisticola and Brown-backed Honeybird, most others were more thrilled by the landscape, the thundering waterfalls, and the Trumpeter Hornbills, Schalow’s Turacos, and Bearded Scrub-Robin. A highlight on the opposite rock shore was the Aloe chabaudii (Dwala Aloe) on the Dolerite – unfortunately not in bloom, but still stunning in the light. We also went to the famous Big Tree, a massive Baobab. However, after seeing the selfie crowds from afar, we decided to drive on – we don’t do selfies anyway, and no one wants to see us. 😊

In the evening, I warned the group about visiting “The Boma – Dinner & Drum Show.” I described it as a loud tourist attraction with lots of drumming and dancing. But Gracia glared at me and said, “But there’s action, right?” I: “Yes.” The group: “We’re doing it!” And so, we found ourselves in the midst of a joyful racket. When I finally saw hips swinging that had probably not felt rhythm in years – including my own stiff German hips – the evening was saved. In the end, everyone wanted to try the famous Mopane Worms and proudly take their certificate home. A perfectly successful evening full of laughter, music, and adventure!

I won’t say much about the farewell the next day… always awkward, but it was a good time, more than just a trip!

PS: This itinerary is based on our Wildlife Big Five Safari offering. However, feel free to request a tailor-made safari, customised specifically for you and your group!