Travel Report of Avifauna Namib-Zambezi in November 2025

Travel Report: Avifauna Nam-Zam November 2025

Guide: Albert Voigts von Schütz

The small rainy season

In earlier times it was reliable, almost like a law of the seasons. Farmers did not just talk about it, they depended on it, they counted on it. In October the first showers arrived, in November the landscape was green again. The small rainy season was simply part of life.

With a clear conscience I can say that in the past thirty years it has either failed completely or only paid a sporadic visit. This year it returned. Already in late October and early November the early rains fell, and that made a significant difference.

This journey, on which we managed to observe an astonishing 390 species, was nevertheless unusual. As far as the everyday bird species were concerned, it remained surprisingly quiet, almost empty. In return, the special sightings were all the more numerous and impressive. All in all I was very happy with our observations and with the way we were able to experience them. It was an exceptional trip, both meteorologically and ornithologically.

The temperatures were remarkable too. Not particularly warm, not particularly hot, as one would normally expect in November. Anyone who knows the usual conditions could clearly feel that this was an unusually cool trip.

Our group was a lively mix. Everyone had a strong interest in nature, especially in birds. There were beginners and experts, botanists and reptile fans, those who searched the ground while others kept their eyes in the treetops. And so every day was filled with discoveries, conversations, exchange and a shared enthusiasm for what nature gave us.

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Day 1, 10.11.2025 – “welcome to the tropics”… or are they the subtropics?

Today the flight did not land until shortly after nine, so in the early morning I still had time to do a bit of homework at Avis Dam. Early on I heard the Orange River Francolins calling and strode out into the landscape. Besides quite a few Rockrunners I was able to observe a fairly large family of these francolins calling loudly, and I thought to myself that later on I would bring the group back here to show them these birds.

Everything at the airport went smoothly. I got a call in the arrivals hall. Mona did not find me at first, but the kind lady at the information desk lent her the phone so she could give me a quick ring. It didn’t take long before the group was happily reunited. As beautiful as November is for the birdlife, it is unfortunately also very hot. And of course the long flight is often more exhausting than one realises. Not to forget that we are at an elevation of over 1700 metres above sea level. So I always find it quite astonishing how much energy my guests have when they step out of the plane.

Our first stop was directly at Avis Dam, where, according to my eBird record, we walked a good four kilometres and were able to see the usual birds very well – from Striated Heron and Swallow-tailed Bee-eater to White-breasted Cormorant, the many Common Moorhens, through to African Pipit, two African Hawk-Eagles circling high overhead and many other species. Extremely nice were a few White-backed Ducks bobbing in the water not all that far away.

When we got out of the vehicle, people did not look up first, as one would normally expect on a birding tour, but down at the ground. There a wonderfully coloured Ground Agama with a bright blue head and striking yellow eyes was on display. Right next to it sat a striped mouse, contentedly nibbling on a seed.

Actually I had wanted to draw their attention immediately to the White-browed Sparrow-Weavers, which were bustling about everywhere here, but nature remains nature.
The group was tired, visibly exhausted, and it was a good thing that Andreas’ voice eventually rang out from the group: “I’m hungry!” I then led the group to my favourite café, Wilde Eend, where we enjoyed wonderfully freshly pressed fruit juice under shady camelthorn trees, very fresh salad with chicken strips, good coffee and some of us even cheesecake. It did us a world of good.

Afterwards we made a second attempt at Avis Dam, but by then the midday heat was so extreme that the walk could hardly be enjoyed. We searched once more for the Orange River Francolins, but did not find them again, and I realised that after such a long flight I could not expect any more and that it would simply be too strenuous.

So, after some supermarket shopping where we stocked up on snacks, we drove about twenty kilometres westward to Daan Viljoen Lodge in Daan Viljoen National Park.

The rooms are very nice. Only with the food, although I liked the fish very much, the meat – the oryx antelope – had probably been far too stressed during the hunt. I was pleased that the group got along so well and that food was already being swapped around so that everyone ended the evening well fed and content.

I was actually rather glad that the evening light was a little too poor to do the checklist, because I was tired too and had no desire for list work. I had recorded everything on eBird anyway and knew exactly what we had seen. Tomorrow is another day.

This evening we had long conversations about Welwitschia, how it was discovered and who Friedrich Welwitsch, this talented, super-diligent Austrian, actually was. Josef’s talks about different orchids were also fascinating. And on the way back we had what hunters call good “Anblick”: a Spotted Eagle-Owl sat clearly and openly on a tree and looked down at us. From its size and the heavily feathered legs I could identify the owl well even without binoculars. Unfortunately we could not photograph it, we said goodnight and arranged to meet at six o’clock for the morning walk.

Day 2 – 11.11.2025 – “let’s rock ’n roll”

Although the accommodation at Daan Viljoen was very pleasant, I slept badly. Already early on I could feel this wind that I knew would spoil my morning. When I met the group, however, it was not as bad as I had feared, and I could well understand that for newcomers in Daan Viljoen it is not easy to suddenly be confronted with so many new bird species.

Since we had not seen Rockrunner the previous day, a bird that is particularly important to me and whose observation also meant a lot to the group, we set out early in the morning in search of this semi-endemic Namibian special. The Daan Viljoen Reserve offers a wonderful view over the little dam, and soon the first interesting species appeared: Lesser Swamp Warbler, which we not only heard but also saw very well, some typical waterbirds and the marvellous view from the upper viewpoint down into the Windhoek valley.

But the wind kept picking up, and no matter how much I tried, Rockrunner would not be coaxed out, even though I could hear him in the distance. It made me uneasy, almost desperate. Even if we still had chances in Erongo later, I really wanted to have this bird in the bag. I suggested that we simply drive back to Windhoek to a spot I knew well where this bird occurs regularly. On the way back I then heard him again a little higher up in the rocks, and after a few attempts he showed himself beautifully. The group gave a collective sigh of relief, mission accomplished, because no one felt like battling with Windhoek traffic – those who know will understand.

After a quick breakfast we set off on the long drive towards the escarpment and the Namib Desert. Birding is like hunting: the weather has to play along, and when the wind is up, the hunter stays at home. I was not entirely satisfied with the morning and was already thinking about how I could still gather the typical bushveld species over the course of the trip.

On the way we saw a few very good birds – Kalahari Scrub-Robin again, African Hawk-Eagles and a few other species. We interrupted the long drive up to the escarpment now and again, stopped at bridges and watched the swifts, mostly House Swifts, until we finally reached the wonderful viewpoint at Spreetshoogte Pass. The group was overwhelmed by the breathtaking vastness and beauty.

Again and again we stopped, looking for more species, and as a bit of compensation a White-throated Canary eventually appeared. I had actually wanted more here, but what is not there, is not there.

Shortly before Nauchas we stopped at a small café, lured in by a large sign proclaiming “The Best Coffee South of the Equator”. The coffee was good, but the young man there, presumably the owner, did not get off to a good start with us. Bernd had run out of cigarettes, and the man wanted to sell him a pack at four times the normal price, claiming he wanted to discourage people from smoking. A small dispute was inevitable. Bernd took it partly in stride, but it was all rather uncomfortable and soon turned into psychoanalytical commentary… the whole thing was just awkward. I did not really understand the fellow either, but perhaps we can chalk it up to the foolishness of youth.

Shortly before sunset we arrived at Rostock Ritz Lodge. Mona did it right: instead of hurrying, she sat down on the terrace, ordered a cool glass of wine and enjoyed the view over the endless Namib while the sun went down. Later we met for dinner, dutifully did the list and went to bed early – the next morning we would head out on Dune Lark hunt.

Day 3 – 12.11.2025 – “desert and dessért”

Cornelia from Rostock Ritz Lodge told me that Dune Larks had been seen about a week earlier, by her, in fact. At first I was confident, but I also felt a tingling in my stomach, because the rain at the beginning of the year had been sparse here and I had suspected for some time that we might be unlucky this time. I prepared the group gently for the possibility that we might have to take a major detour via Rooibank in order to see Dune Lark after all.

Bernd and Josef, both passionate plant lovers, kindly reminded me that Welwitschia mirabilis, which was on our programme, must not be left out under any circumstances, which I of course had not intended anyway.

We were already in the dunes before sunrise. Nothing. No tracks, no calls, not even the usually reliable Grey-backed Sparrow-Larks, and in my head the thought “how I hate this drought” kept circling, for reasons of its own. Only mouse tracks in the sand, the habitat was simply too dry.
Between the grass tufts we then came across whole colonies of dune ants, Camponotus detritus. I knew of course that Dune Larks are very keen on these small bundles of energy and was about to explain to the group how these ants tend tiny mites on the grass stems. These mites, hardly bigger than a speck of dust, cling firmly to the stems and secrete a fine, sugary honeydew. The ants visit them not only to harvest this honeydew, they also protect and defend them like small livestock. A silent but amazingly close symbiosis in the middle of the dry dune landscape.
Yet somehow all these stories felt a bit pale today, because everything was overshadowed by the quiet suspicion that we would probably not see Dune Larks.

We trudged and trudged through the sand until Bernd had had enough and I advised him to turn back early. Little did I know that the lark would soon fly in right there… that was my mistake, I should not have sent him back on his own. Mark and I continued, climbed a higher dune and suddenly, a short flight, a silhouette over the dune ridge: a Dune Lark. It disappeared again, we followed, but for a long time we could not find it.

On the way back came the redeeming moment: Andrea had seen something, was unsure at first, then pointed ahead and indeed, there it was. A little further down another bird flew up and vanished into the grass. We approached carefully and were finally able to watch it wonderfully.

I was overjoyed and grateful. There really is a god for tour leaders. The Dune Lark was ticked, all good. But it was also clear to me that this place would no longer be a reliable site in future. For the next trips I will have to come up with something else.

Over Gaub Pass, through the impressive Valley of a Thousand Hills and the geologically fascinating Kuiseb Pass we reached the seemingly endless gravel plains of the Namib. To many people these landscapes may seem bare and empty, but for us they were full of life and even a few bird species.

We were able to observe several juvenile Stark’s Larks, which kept taking off in small groups ahead of us. I was particularly pleased that the recent rains had apparently led to a successful breeding season. Only Grey-backed Sparrow-Lark was missing, presumably it had moved on to better grazing grounds.

Gray’s Lark gave us its familiar show. Since these birds often sit in the distance shimmering in the heat, this one was merciful and perched fearlessly right at the roadside, stretching its wings in something like bird yoga.

Our drive continued, and in the granite landscape near Blutkoppie Karoo Eremomela was already waiting for us. I had prepared myself to search for this little bird at several spots in the midday heat, but this time luck was on our side: we found it immediately at a group of mighty quiver trees, Aloe dichotoma. The delicate olive-green plumage of this small bird delighted everyone – nice when guests appreciate the small things.

We then crossed the Welwitschia plains, where hundreds of plants were visible, to the particular delight of Bernd and Josef, and almost traditionally at the main Welwitschia site we were able to observe Tractrac Chats with partners and other individuals.

Since we were early, I took a small detour via Goanikontes and drove up a hill where we discovered so-called living stones, Lithops, as well as other interesting plants from the genera Aloe and Commiphora. The group received this little side excursion gratefully.

Along the way we kept an eye out for Rufous-eared Warbler. At first it seemed that these shy birds would not show themselves at all, but then one suddenly flew right across the track in front of us, exactly at a spot where I had spontaneously turned off. Andrea called out, “There, a small bird!” I played its call immediately and, as if on cue, it appeared, showing off its beautiful red ear patch. From a distance this warbler looks like a nondescript little brown job, but through binoculars its full colour and beauty emerge.

In the afternoon we finally reached Swakopmund and ended the day at The Old Steamer, which probably has the best buffet in town. The beef steaks, rib-eye was recommended, were as excellent as the fish, and the starters alone would have been enough to fill you up. A thoroughly successful end to a tiring yet great day.

Day 4 – 13.11.2025 – “mud and sand”

At eight o’clock I picked up a well-rested and cheerful group at the Rapmund Hotel and we headed straight to the beach. With four-wheel drive we drove through deep sand along the coast, including tiny White-fronted Plover chicks fleeing and disappearing into the tyre tracks. Soon we had the usual Whimbrels, common Grey Plovers, the delightful White-fronted Plovers, Kittlitz’s Plovers and various cormorants in view, among them Crowned Cormorant and the common Cape Cormorant.

At Dolphin Beach we were pleased to see that Red Knot had already arrived. We were also able to observe several terns, including the Namibian speciality, Damara Tern, which breeds at this time on the gravel plains of the Namib. We saw them several times in graceful flight and while hunting before driving on to the so-called Bird Sanctuary near Walvis Bay.

I told the group that on a walk in the desert shortly before the trip I had found a nest consisting only of a single egg lying out in the open in the middle of the emptiness, between the horse skeletons of the horse graveyard.

There we were greeted by an overwhelming sight: huge flocks of Greater Flamingos and Lesser Flamingos passed over us in large formations. Between them we picked out splendid African Swamphens, various duck species and numerous Common Moorhens, including a few leucistic, that is, white individuals.

At the Walvis Bay lagoon we aimed our scopes at a large gathering of Curlew Sandpipers, Little Stints, Ruddy Turnstones and countless Common Terns as well as Black Terns. Right at the far end of the lagoon we also spotted thirteen Eurasian Curlews.

With this haul I was more than satisfied. The group was gradually becoming tired and had thoroughly earned a free afternoon. Over dinner at Ankerplatz, where the food was excellent, I heard everyone enthusiastically recounting their afternoon, their purchases of high-quality Namibian handicrafts and the wonderful coffee and milk tart at the Village Café. And so this eventful day ended in a cheerful mood and with many words of thanks.

Day 5, 14.11.2025 – “such a happy place”

It was a fine-weather day. In Swakopmund it had rained lightly in the morning. It sounds odd, but rainy weather in Swakopmund, when the sun then breaks through into complete windless stillness, has an almost fabulous, uniquely beautiful atmosphere.

After breakfast we took a short walk along the promenade and immediately found the Orange River White-eye we were after.

Right afterwards we drove east towards Spitzkoppe. I have my own spots there where still unspoiled, untainted Herero Chats live. Although my guests had to scramble over rock and stone, we quickly found them and were able to observe the birds very well, though not from very close range.

We continued driving and I hoped also to find Benguela Long-billed Lark. I called it tirelessly, but it remained invisible. Almost having given up and already a good way farther on, I said to Mona that really we should turn around and try again. And she simply replied, “Do it, drive back!”

So I turned around and drove to the north side of Spitzkoppe, heading west, and called again in various suitable habitats. And then at some point it happened. A bird flew in and perched, of course exactly behind a bush. Shortly afterwards a second appeared and sat beautifully exposed on a rock right next to the vehicle like a little monument. A true connoisseur’s sighting, as Mona so nicely put it. I looked in the wing mirror and saw all the lenses pointing outwards. Mark was already behind the vehicle taking the best photos.

After that we continued to my friends Terry and Didi at Erongo Rocks. On the one hand I was in the mood for coffee, on the other I knew that cake and ice cream there are simply wonderful. So we first treated ourselves properly before driving on into the contrasting area beyond, a varied landscape of granite boulders, scree fields and acacias.

Already in the garden we saw the first Rüppell’s Parrots. On the short onward drive we then picked up birds such as Carp’s Tit, Layard’s Tit Babbler and, among the commoner species, Red-eyed Bulbul, White-throated Canary, Black-throated Canary, Cape Bunting, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Pririt Batis, Dusky Sunbird, Rosy-faced Lovebirds and the handsome White-browed Scrub-Robin. It was particularly impressive to see a Pearl-spotted Owlet sitting in a tree being mobbed by several of the species just mentioned.

The slightly rainy weather provided wonderfully cool air. A November day when the light was fantastic, the air so fresh and clear and everyone visibly in the best of spirits. We also encountered Ashy Tit, which I would almost have forgotten to mention.

With all these wonderful impressions we were able to let the day end in a relaxed way and arrived early at the lodge in Omandumba Bush Camp, which is really beautifully laid out. We were already very much looking forward to the next day. On the way we saw sand frogs, completely motionless and round, presumably now out hunting insects after the rainfall. They were probably Tomopterna tandyi, but for the time being the exact species remains undetermined… Josef kindly provided me with his pictures and I am now waiting for the clever iNaturalists to confirm this.

At this point I would like to point out that many Germans still use the platform ornito.de even though they travel all over the world. For globally oriented observers, eBird is much more suitable. eBird is a huge, very powerful and free platform on which you can create checklists, trip reports and observation lists worldwide. I therefore strongly recommend switching to eBird as soon as possible – birdwatching has long been global, no longer just national.

New is that eBird now also allows other animal groups to be reported. In addition, the use of iNaturalist for identification is recommended – likewise an excellent and useful platform.

Day 6, 15.11.2025 – “rolling rocks and rock ’n roll”

When it rains in Namibia, everything changes. The air becomes lighter, the landscape looks fresher, the light clearer and people automatically feel better. Even though we met very early, the sun had not yet risen, everyone was in a surprisingly good mood and full of energy for a short walk into the plutonic granite landscape of Erongo.

Already on the ascent I briefly played the call of Hartlaub’s Spurfowl loudly and, as if on cue, three birds were suddenly standing above us on the granite like little tin soldiers. Man, that was fantastic. It is typical of Hartlaub’s Spurfowl that they show themselves briefly and then retreat again into rock crevices and fissures. That is exactly what they did this time. It was astonishing to see how they could run along the steep, smooth rock faces in order to put themselves out of reach of us harmless people.

We continued up onto the plateau and I played the call once more. In the meantime the group had split up a bit and only one spurfowl showed itself somewhat farther away. At the other end of the plateau we then saw a spurfowl standing on a rock in a wonderful setting, calling for its own kind. A great moment.

On the way back we were able to observe beautiful Pririt Batis and a few other birds before returning for breakfast and setting off relatively early.

On the way I knew of a spot with very tall trees and a clearly recognisable riverbed. I parked the vehicle in the shade, walked a few steps and tried to lure out one or two cuckoos or woodpeckers. At first nothing at all happened. Then I went a bit farther, the group followed slowly, and suddenly life exploded in the trees.

A little while later we were all completely euphoric. An African Cuckoo circled around us the whole time, calling. A Black Cuckoo flew over us, giving its plaintive song, “it will raaaaaain” for the optimists and “I’m siiiiiick” for the pessimists. Violet Woodhoopoe showed itself in the very best light and could be photographed fantastically. The Pied Babblers approached with trembling wings, calling curiously. Then a Golden-tailed Woodpecker and a Bearded Woodpecker also appeared, perfectly visible in the tall acacias. That is how a day can go on, and by now it was definitely saved.

We continued via Omaruru to Outjo, where we treated ourselves to wonderful coffee and cake. The coffee cups were gigantic, really gigantic, a good half litre… good grief. The spinach tart with spinach and cheese was delicious, and the others’ cakes also looked fabulous.

In the late afternoon we reached Etosha Safari Camp, where in the evening, with the usual loud music-making – guitar, drums, loud voices and so on – we ate our way fairly quickly through the buffet. It really doesn’t taste bad, but it is a buffet, and what always bothers me is that everyone handles the same serving spoons, but the difficult Albert should not make such a fuss. Afterwards we went to our quite nice rooms, of course only after we had filled in the obligatory checklist.

Day 7, 16.11.2025 – “etota, Etosha, the place of nothing”

It really bothered me that we had not seen Bare-cheeked Babbler the previous day, especially since a message from my colleague had come in saying that none could be found anywhere in Etosha. I was genuinely worried that I would not be able to show these creatures. So we decided not to go straight into the park early, but first to take a morning walk.

We met, walked a bit, played the calls, tried everything, but there was no reaction. Then we got into the vehicle, drove to the campsite and as soon as we had stopped, three Bare-cheeked Babblers were dancing around in the mopane trees right in front of us as if on order. The sun had not even risen yet and already we were able to observe and photograph a Namibian special bird wonderfully. That saved the morning and we could have an early breakfast and still set off for the park very early.

In the park the day started really well. Right at the beginning we saw elephants, and soon afterwards Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Larks were drinking from puddles at the roadside. These are larks that we often do not find at all. This time there were many, including numerous juveniles. That pleased me especially, because as the son of a farmer I am in love with good breeding success.

Then I saw the typical flight of Quailfinch and heard the characteristic call that goes along with that turbo-flight. Quailfinches are almost invisible and then suddenly they shoot away in front of you in the strangest turbo formation, with this wonderful liquid sound. I tried desperately to see clearly where they were landing, because every time we came closer they were already flying off again. Eventually I memorised the spots where they went down and in this way we were able to observe them really well. Photographing them was a little difficult because they were sitting against the light, but they were there, they were visible, and ornithologically this was an absolute high point, there is really no other way to put it.

The drive continued and I put the group to a choice: left, the western loop with a chance of coursers, or right, the route towards a cheetah that was probably already besieged by tourist vehicles. A colleague had already warned us that it might be quite crowded there. The group decided on the cheetah and we drove that track.

In the end we had the great good fortune to find a female cheetah which apparently no one else had discovered yet. She was suckling her young and we had her entirely to ourselves. A beautiful moment.

We drove on to Okaukuejo, where everyone could use the toilet once more and I paid the park fees. Some then took a short walk to look for a few birds, but did not find anything new. Then we took the long road through the park to Onguma Lodge. It was a very long and very hot drive, stopping again and again, looking again and again, always birds, forwards and backwards, slowly and fast, and in the midday heat we were all well “baked” by the time we arrived.

The secretary – an actor on long legs

Hardly any bird is as popular with German safari guests as the Secretary Bird. Almost everyone wants to see it and very often it stands right at the top of the personal wish list. On this trip we were able to observe three, if not four individuals. But today’s bird was a special highlight.

He did not present himself in the usual way, giving us only the famous backside view, as the English say. Instead, he decided to put on a little show for us. He came towards us, proud, head held high, and then even began to hunt. Again and again he spread his wings, set off on short sprints, struck forward, grabbed for prey, stopped, pranced, tested the ground and moved on.

And I, of course, missed every single moment when his wings were fully open. Bitter, to be honest. Then he crossed the road directly in front of us in complete calm and finally disappeared far, far away.

You can hardly experience a better encounter with a Secretary Bird. And even though my own photo only turned out moderately well, I am sure that Mark, Andrea and certainly Josef too were able to capture this bird in perfection.

But there was still a crowning moment. Shortly before we left the park I briefly drove across Fischer’s Pan, and there, in perfect light, a Greater Painted Snipe showed itself. It was simply wonderful and everyone was so grateful. It is so lovely to be on the road with this group. You can literally feel this gratitude, and that is incredibly pleasant for me.

We drove on to Onguma. The Onguma Bush Camp is really very beautiful, small, idyllic, and everyone immediately felt very much at ease. The dinner was unique, fantastic, the view of the waterhole wonderful, the atmosphere high quality. Everyone went to bed content, of course only after we had filled in the checklist… the list, that is nothing for me, but what has to be, has to be.

Day 8, 17.11.2025 – “Fischer is a guy, not a job”

At 5:30 we met for breakfast. The coffee here at Onguma was particularly good and I even got my long-desired stiff porridge. We set off early, and already at the gate I was greeted with a smile because I was a bit later than usual today. “You are late today.” I answered calmly that I knew, and off we went towards Namutoni. There I realised that I had forgotten my little speaker. Since the bushveld birds around Namutoni usually need to be called out and we were a little under time pressure anyway, this stop was not especially successful.

On a short walk we still saw a Golden Oriole and were able to observe some of the common species again at leisure before driving on around Fischer’s Pan and checking the Okevis, two natural waterholes. I had Blue Cranes at the back of my mind the whole time, because Mona very much wanted to see them.

So I drove out onto the Andoni plains, which are often good for Blue Cranes, but they were absent here as well. So we first took care of the larks and had lovely views of Eastern Clapper Lark, Pink-billed Lark, numerous Red-capped Larks and Grey-backed Sparrow-Larks.

Countless animals gathered at the waterholes, or at least hundreds: plains zebras, Equus quagga burchellii, many warthogs, red hartebeest and a few springbok. Farther north we reached the big spring where the water gushes out of the ground and where we used to always be successful. This time, however, the area was badly littered and trampled by cattle, between plastic bags and rubbish – welcome to Africa.

Although there were hundreds of Chestnut-banded Plovers here, many Little Stints, Avocets, Black-winged Stilts and some Ruff, my appetite for further rarities disappeared. It was hot and I lost all desire for birding, I hate that rubbish.

We drove back to Andoni, still no Blue Cranes. I took the big loop through the grassland which we call Little Serengeti, back to Andoni, and still no Blue Cranes. When my good colleague and friend Ute von Ludwiger, who guides in the park on a daily basis, wrote to me that the cranes had apparently moved north to a dam in Ovamboland, we finally gave up on them.

On the way back we saw a few more Greater Painted Snipes at Fischer’s Pan and a few Marabous. But it was now after two, the heat and the many hours in the vehicle were taking their toll, and we were all looking forward to a quiet afternoon. I changed a battery and realised that one of the vehicle batteries had failed. It would have to be replaced tomorrow in Grootfontein.

During dinner a Barn Owl flew past. I called to it again and shone the torch so that we could admire it beautifully. The day ended with thumbs up.

Day 9, 18.11.2025 – “long way from home”

Although today was purely a driving day and no major birding was planned, we got up very early and had breakfast at 5:30. That gave us time for a short walk before the long stretch, which, apart from a Crested Francolin, did not bring any major success.

Then we drove into another area, because I still absolutely wanted to look for Black-faced Babbler. This special bird belongs on every list and ought to burn itself permanently into every birding brain. The first two attempts were unsuccessful, but eventually I headed for another lodge whose surroundings I knew from earlier trips and where I had seen the species before, and indeed we were able to show it to our guests there. We did not even have to call, we were simply lucky and the birds suddenly appeared.

There we also saw African Paradise Flycatcher, which thrilled everyone with its elegance and colourful beauty, and White-bellied Sunbird, which positioned itself perfectly for photography. At the end a Cinnamon-breasted Bunting also perched like on a small pedestal and seemed to be simply waiting for the cameras.

Then the actual drive could begin and we continued straight to Grootfontein. Because the fridge in the vehicle had drained the battery before, I had to replace it. While the guests enjoyed wonderful coffee and cake in Grootfontein, I bought a new car battery, installed it, picked everyone up again and we continued the long stretch across the veterinary fence, the red line, the border behind which the real Africa begins, on to Kayova Lodge.

Kayova Lodge is a typical lodge for north-eastern Namibia. You cannot, of course, expect the same standard here as in the rest of Namibia, for the access roads alone and the infrastructural possibilities are much more challenging. Nevertheless the rooms were nice and clean, the mosquito nets safe, the water pressure perfect, and even I got a good room. Dinner was a pre-ordered three-course meal, let us say it was perfectly fine. No one complained and everyone went to bed full.

Naturally we also explored the lodge garden. There we observed among other things Ashy Tit and a Levaillant’s Cuckoo in the act of mating. Particularly sweet was how the male brought a small gift, a caterpillar, to the female at the same time – food and love in a single moment, to put it more elegantly. We later saw the same behaviour with a Jacobin Cuckoo: male with gift, mating, feeding – highly interesting.

I narrowly missed that scene with the Levaillant’s Cuckoo, but Josef, as always, had his camera ready. He is the oldest in the group and at the same time the toughest. I admire this man for the iron discipline and inexhaustible drive with which he is always on his feet in the truest sense of the word and never seems to tire. He is never too hot, never too cold, never too far. And his knowledge of nature and of physical interconnections is boundless.

Day 10, 19.11.2025 – “follow me, I’m lost too”

Today getting up was even earlier. The alarm went off at a quarter to five, even though I was not feeling entirely well. Thankfully there are pills for that. Punctually at half past five we set off and reached the Miombo woodlands at a quarter to six, where some of our most important target species were waiting for us.

Right at the top of the list was Rufous-bellied Tit, followed by Souza’s Shrike. Also important were Racket-tailed Roller and Arnot’s Chat. We knew that this would be a demanding, intense day.

So as not to bore anyone with detailed route descriptions, I will keep it short. I met up with a long-standing contact, a local Kwangali who spends a lot of time in this area and protects the birdlife and the forests with great passion. He owns an enormous property which he actively saves from logging. At the same time he tries to involve the local population more in tourism in order to create alternatives to cutting wood.

Here large stands of manketti, tamboti, Zambezi teak and kiaat grow. Particularly sought after is the so-called Rhodesian teak, the red teak timber that is sold in many places and unfortunately heavily over-exploited. Exactly in these forests the rare species live which, due to increasing human influence, human encroachment as the English say, are becoming harder and harder to find.
We drove deep into the landscape and eventually walked about eight kilometres through the Miombo forest. At first the mood was a little low, because observations were few and difficult. Then suddenly we heard Rufous-bellied Tit. After several attempts it finally responded to our playback and allowed wonderful views. A great moment that alone would have saved the day.

We also encountered species such as Klaas’s Cuckoo and Golden-breasted Bunting. Time and again we heard Red-chested Cuckoo. Then we changed area and eventually also found Souza’s Shrike. It is always fascinating to hear these birds at a distance, to approach them, to track them, and then to realise that the bird you thought was far away is calling loudly only about 50 metres from you. An intense moment that carried everyone along.

The deep sand was hard work and the classic group dynamics emerged in which those at the front already had the bird in view while those at the back were still struggling along. I did my best to make sure that Mark, who loved to take pictures, and Josef, who sat all the way at the back, always got good viewing positions. I think everyone managed to take excellent photos, even if it must have been frustrating at times not to be on the bird straight away.

Shortly afterwards our local guide reported that Racket-tailed Rollers could be found in his village. And indeed, we saw them fantastically, two birds, almost courting and calling. Then Arnot’s Chat also showed up in a truly fairy-tale scene: at first hidden, then enticing, and finally it perched directly in front of a trunk about 30 metres away and presented itself with raised tail and a small dancing ritual. Unbelievably beautiful. You first have to deserve that much luck.

Our tours with and for Birdingtours have a maximum of seven participants; this time we were only five. I believe that is one of our greatest strengths: small groups, good lodges, well-fed, well-rested guests and therefore very intense nature experiences. In this respect we are clearly ahead of the competition. I can say that with a very clear conscience.

Once we had seen everything we wanted, we drove the last stretch to Mahangu Lodge. After the room allocation I immediately discovered Hartlaub’s Babblers and a Thick-billed Weaver in the garden. Josef, who actually wanted to move into his room at that moment, preferred to grab the camera and stalk the birds.

During the two-hour break I sat down on the deck and, bit by bit, the others joined me in a relaxed mood. On the opposite bank the hippos lay in all shapes and sizes, big, small, dry, wet, playing, fighting, grunting, loving one another. A calming, beautiful sight. And the coffee was excellent. The owner here is German and you can clearly taste that in the coffee.

After the break we went on a game drive into Mahango National Park. On the drive through the park the afternoon mood was incredibly beautiful, as it often is there. Unfortunately you usually only have the last two or three hours of the day and would actually need many more to observe all the animals along the Okavango properly. In the wetlands and on the floodplains of the Okavango hundreds of lechwe and waterbuck were grazing. We also saw Chapman’s zebras, a special subspecies of plains zebra, Equus quagga chapmani. Some Chobe bushbuck hid in denser thickets. The impalas had just given birth; many mothers had a youngster at their side and there were several proper nurseries. Impalas rely on synchronous births – in a crowd you survive more easily.

The absolute highlight of this day and, for me personally, one of the most beautiful experiences of the whole tour was a Speke’s hinge-back tortoise which Bernd pointed out to us – thank you dearest Bernd. On the bird side the riverbank was, as always, highly interesting with White-faced Whistling Ducks, Spur-winged Geese and African Jacanas. After an hour Mona was already quite disappointed that this game drive would be so short and visibly sad that we would have to leave the park again after one and a half hours. I promised her that we would go back into the park the next day and that restored the mood.
On the way out of the park we met a small group of Chapman’s zebras. Once again the difference from Burchell’s zebra was clearly visible. They were standing in a freshly blooming field of Crinum subcernuum, which lent the scene an almost fairy-tale beauty.

Day 11 – 20.11.2025 – “Tswanas and Trees and Water”

Early in the morning we met up with a local lodge guide and took a fairly long walking trail. We observed an African Scops Owl, many of the usual bush birds such as Hartlaub’s Babbler, a very nice Holub’s Golden Weaver and several other species. The usually almost guaranteed Lesser Moorhen was not to be found this time. On the whole the walk – apart from a beautifully visible Little Sparrowhawk at the end – was somewhat less productive than in some other years. The conditions were actually excellent, with good rainfall and pleasant temperatures. But you cannot top everything every year.

We then drove back into Mahango National Park and this time chose the western loop that follows the course of the river. Through the deep sand we eventually reached the main road again. There we discovered the yellow morph of Crimson-breasted Shrike and spent quite a while getting decent photos of this bird. Mark, as always, was quick and sharp with the camera and managed to capture it even in the dense scrub.

In the Miombo-like strip of woodland on the ridge we stopped more often and tried to call different species with playback, but apart from Southern Black Tit and Green Woodhoopoe not much showed itself. So we returned to the main road and around midday crossed the border. It was a good moment because all the border officials looked visibly exhausted and had little interest in detailed checks, so we got through surprisingly quickly.

At Drotsky’s Cabins we were greeted with less pleasant news: there would be no boat available for us in the afternoon. I phoned the neighbouring lodge and, to our good fortune, they had a free boat and even a guide available who later turned out to be excellent. We went over, got on board and he sped straight to the spot where he suspected Pel’s Fishing Owl.

We were incredibly lucky. The owl was not sitting high in the fork of a jackalberry as it usually does, but this time quite close to the trunk and completely open to view. What a sight. On top of that a vervet monkey came down from above, shook the branches and got on the owl’s nerves so that it opened its eyes wide, glared up and fluffed itself up a bit – yeah man, a dream for photographers.

On the way back we stopped at a sandbank where several African Skimmers were standing, among them some youngsters that were not yet fully coloured. In the warm afternoon light it was wonderful to watch these elegant birds flying – romantic Africa at its best.

But our guide went one better and showed us a White-backed Night Heron. It took quite a bit of manoeuvring, as this species likes to remain secretive and rarely offers clear views. The guide patiently steered the boat back and forth and eventually even circled the tree from different sides until we finally had the bird beautifully exposed in front of us. You really cannot ask for more.

The boat finally docked at the jetty of Drotsky’s Cabins. The guests disembarked, I went back with the guide to the neighbouring lodge and then drove home in the car. The management greeted me a little grumpily because of my late return, but everything was quickly sorted out and, hopefully, everyone went to bed content.

Day 12 – 21.11.2025 – “Panhandle”

Otto was the name of the local guide with whom we set off this morning in search of Narina Trogon. The Narina Trogon is surely one of the most beautiful birds on earth, with its flaming red breast and emerald-green back, which it immediately turns towards you as soon as it senses danger. High in the green canopy it is therefore difficult to see and often a real challenge to find at all. We heard it calling and followed the sound, and we were able to see it several times quite well, but photographing it was, as so often, a test of patience.

So we trudged, cracked and scratched our way through the undergrowth in the truest sense of the word, always in the hope of better views of this magnificent bird. But it quickly grew warmer. At some point Andrea asked me what bird she had on the camera display. I recognised Red-capped Robin-chat and felt my knees go weak. Red-capped Robin-chat is sought after not only by me but by practically all the bird guides in this region – often in vain, usually in frustration and almost always without success. It is recorded only very rarely here.

I probably said, somewhat cheekily, “Why didn’t you show me that straight away?” The situation was the following: I had indeed heard the bird singing at that spot and turned to Otto saying it sounded different, perhaps White-browed Robin-chat. He nodded and suggested that the bird up there might be a juvenile of the robin-chat. So we all turned our eyes upwards into the canopy, while Andrea was down in the undergrowth photographing one of the rarest birds of the region.

After a while it really was time to turn back. Bernd had withdrawn to sun himself a bit, he had had enough, and Andrea was already feeling faint from the heat. So we went back for breakfast. At the very end Andrea, who really has eagle eyes, suddenly pointed up above us and said, “There he sits, your Trogon.” And sure enough, we were able to admire the Narina Trogon one more time, from behind, from the front and from the side. A great moment.

After breakfast I went out again on my own to look specifically for the Red-capped Robin-chat. Marching around in the midday heat is not exactly motivating, but I could not let it rest. At some point I was close to giving up when I heard it, and heard it imitating a Pearl-spotted Owlet. I put my playback device with his call quietly into the thicket. And indeed, a bird shot past, then another, and at some point one of them perched for a moment, but not even two seconds. I managed a single photo, a tenth of a second later it had vanished back into the scrub.

On the way back a Barred Owlet also showed itself. I had wanted to show that one to the guests anyway and now this beautiful little owl could also go on the list.

When I told the group about my success I of course saw a few disappointed faces, since they had missed these two birds. So later we set out once more and tried to find them again. It took only a short while and, incredibly, we managed it. The Red-capped Robin-chat appeared. It stayed deep in the undergrowth, but the views were clear enough to satisfy everyone.

And the Barred Owlet also showed itself again, this time perfectly for what Mona so nicely called a “connoisseur’s view”. With that we were able to close this chapter successfully and move on.

In the afternoon we took another boat trip with Otto a little further south out onto the Okavango floodplains. Getting there took a while, but the way already brought highlights with a young Little Bittern, the newly arrived Blue-cheeked Bee-eater and Brown-hooded Kingfisher. We even took a short walk across the wide plains, discovering here and there interesting species such as Brown Firefinch, Coppery-tailed Coucal, and a Whiskered Tern that we were able to watch beautifully as it flew over us with its typical calls.

There was not much that was new for the list, and that is not meant in any negative way. It was simply a beautiful, quiet afternoon drive, but without any of the hoped-for kick-ass species such as Allen’s Gallinule, which I otherwise almost always see here… well then, common birds it was, also nice.

Day 13, 22.11.2025 – “go-away, actually a name of a bird”

We met early in the morning for a short walk in the garden. I had actually hoped once again to find Olive Woodpecker, which I had seen here before. This time it did not show up and overall the garden remained rather quiet, except that Black-collared Barbet called loudly and a flap-necked chameleon, Chamaeleo dilepis, cast a spell over the all-rounders in the group. So we soon came to breakfast and were quickly ready to leave.

On the way out we had a very nice Broad-billed Roller, a colourful bird that presented itself wonderfully. Leaving Botswana and entering Namibia again went surprisingly quickly. I then drove a few little loops, because in Mahango Park I really wanted to find Sharp-tailed Starling. But heat and wind made any search almost hopeless and the bird world was conspicuously quiet. It was exactly the right weather for a long drive though, and today more than 360 kilometres lay ahead. Fortunately most of the route was tarred.

At White Sands, N//goabaca, we stopped briefly to have a look at the Popa rapids. The ladies took the opportunity to buy one or two baskets from the Khwe Bushmen who run the little souvenir shop there. Then we continued eastwards, into the Caprivi Strip, which is now called Zambezi Region.

Of course it always takes time when you stop, look for a bird, then chase after another. So we did not reach the lodge until late afternoon. They were already expecting us in a friendly way and not much later we were able to board the boat of Caprivi River Lodge. That outing was to be an absolute highlight. When we arrived at the lodge and had finished checking in, we naturally wanted to see the Leafloves as soon as possible, that is Yellow-throated Leaflove, which has unfortunately been renamed and now bears the truly silly name Yellow-throated Greenbul.

One really has to say clearly that those who have renamed all these birds so thoughtlessly – as in the case of Blacksmith Lapwing, which truly bore its old German name with good reason, and which was turned into Schmiedekiebitz, or in the case of the lovingly named Leaflove which was turned into some kind of Greenbul – ought to find someone who explains to them why such changes are simply nonsense. There are numerous really ill-considered name changes where all you can do is shake your head at the stupidity of these people. And they certainly do not make our lives as guides any easier.

In any case the local boatman immediately understood what we were after and led us straight through the garden. It did not take long before we spotted a splendid pair of Leafloves. Oh yes, for me it will always remain Leaflove. The group were able not only to watch the two of them sitting side by side and stretching their wings, but also to photograph them at leisure.

We then continued to joke about one of our standard topics, namely how to set the white balance on a camera properly. It must be said here that Mark is an absolute photo professional and truly gets the maximum out of every picture with careful white-balance settings. I learned an incredible amount from him in this respect and it is simply fun to be on the road with someone who brings so much experience and passion.

The African Finfoot showed itself surprisingly quickly and even climbed out of the water to present its bright orange legs, both the male and the female. May one still say that? We also saw the beautiful Grey-headed Kingfisher with its warm browns, pale and grey tones and the soft blue and white that adorn its head and back. Later we encountered another male finfoot, several Striated Herons, the impressive Giant Kingfisher and a Black-crowned Night Heron.

The crowning glory came in a quiet, almost magical moment. In front of us the Southern Carmine Bee-eaters repeatedly hunted low over the water, swooping down, dipping in and rising again as if to cool or wash themselves. The birds were visibly enjoying themselves and naturally we tried to capture the scene in photographs. That, however, takes a great deal of practice and I do not think any of us got the perfect shot. Nevertheless the moment was unforgettable and made the day.

In the evening there was a local fish, a bream, which tasted exceptionally good. The vegetarians too were, as always, very well catered for, and I have not heard anyone complain about the food on this entire trip so far – on the contrary, everyone has been enthusiastic everywhere, well, almost everywhere. That is also due to our careful choice of lodges. From Birdingtours we act under clear instructions to accommodate our guests always well to very well, and it really pays off.

Later in the evening we welcomed JG who had promised to guide us a little through his home area the next morning. A beautiful end to a long, impressive day.

Day 14, 23.11.2025 – “diesel and dust”

Shortly after five many were already booted and spurred, the suitcases almost packed, ready for our morning walk. At the lodge we had a quick coffee and soon after we set out, hoping to find Eastern Nicator. But the bird stubbornly remained silent. Even the playback brought no reaction. In the distance Trumpeter Hornbills flew past, but they did not show themselves. The morning was shaping up to be rather uneventful.

Very nice, on the other hand, were the views of Grey-headed Bushshrike and Orange-breasted Bushshrike, which sat attentively in the morning sun and offered the photographers some really fine moments. Chinspot Batis was also a pleasant addition. Still, it soon became clear to me that we were losing too much time, so we went back for breakfast.

After the meal we drove to the Green Basket Café to see the Bronze Mannikins that occur there reliably. Charmaine, the waitress, was quite disappointed that we had no time for coffee and said with a reproachful look that it could hardly take longer than ten minutes to drink one. I will have to make that up to her next time.

Then we continued, accompanied by JG, which suited me just fine. The lagoons in the east are constantly changing, both in terms of their birdlife and their accessibility, and it helps to have someone along who visits this area regularly. It did not take long before we found Lesser Jacana, Rufous-bellied Heron and other familiar species that braved our lenses.

We then drove on to the carmine bee-eater colony, a large gathering of ground-nesting, or rather ground-burrowing, Southern Carmine Bee-eaters. The hundreds of birds naturally made a great impression on the group. But we were searching for a particular rarity, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, which had been reported here earlier. We stood for a good half, a felt two hours in the blazing sun, but the bird simply would not appear. Behind me the group grew smaller and smaller until finally even Mona, who urgently wanted to see this bird, went back to the vehicle to escape the glaring sun. I said goodbye to JG and we drove on to the Chobe floodplains.

There we first saw the usual herons and several waders. Hottentot Teal showed itself and earlier on the lagoon we had even found a Pygmy Goose. I urged the group to watch carefully for Rosy-throated Longclaw. And indeed, suddenly a female was sitting very close beside the vehicle, with a beautifully tinted throat and underparts. Lovely.

Later we were lucky once again and found two African Snipes as well as a Greater Painted Snipe. With that, the adventure of the day had been completely fulfilled for me and we headed for the border.
There I really became quite angry. The Namibian side of the border control was a disgrace. The hall was grubby and we simply were not processed. We stood around for half an hour until the only officer at the entry counter finally tore himself away, sat down at the exit counter but first served the African ladies who had pushed in. When I raised my voice he merely said, “What can I do?” I drew my own conclusions and stuck to my judgement. My annoyance was deep and I was ashamed of my fellow citizens. It was truly the lowest of the low.

In Botswana, things went perfectly smoothly. We disinfected our shoes, I drove through the dip, we were courteously processed and drove easily through the park to the jetty. There Peter was already waiting for us and as soon as we were on the boat we slipped into a completely relaxed mood, perhaps also thanks to the obligatory welcome gin and tonic. At the lodge we were welcomed with singing and clapping, which was really heart-warming. After a coffee and wonderful banana bread we walked – fortunately the immigration office was right next to the lodge – quite casually back into Namibia and then drove with Peter on another boat trip.

It was completely relaxed. The boat glided quietly along the banks and past a large herd of buffalo. We saw the usual Water Thick-knees and many other waterbirds. The trip was finally crowned by the sighting of the rare Slaty Egret and a Black Egret, and shortly afterwards a herd of elephants appeared in front of us, standing calmly at the water in the warm evening light. A spectacular sunset laid itself over the scene and made this part of the day the perfect end to a long day.

Day 15, 24.11.2025 – “Lumela”

Utterly smashed I woke up at five this morning. It was incredibly warm and although I had actually slept well, there was no residual energy left in my body which felt more like a soggy loaf. I very much hoped that my guests were faring better. Peu à peu everyone appeared for coffee at half past five. After one or two biscuits, a few friendly words and two good mornings we set off on the early morning boat trip.

Right at the start we saw a beautiful Red-throated Pipit. Unfortunately it was sitting so deep and so far away that we could not photograph it. I briefly played the recording, but instead of coming closer the bird flew in a wide arc to another island. Ah well, that is how it goes sometimes.

We continued along the Botswana bank and unfortunately the group had to endure my bad mood and my grumbling about the rubbish lying along the shore. Luckily a Half-collared Kingfisher laughed at us shortly afterwards. Normally this bird is difficult to find, but we had Andrea with us. Already from quite a distance she said there was a kingfisher sitting there – and indeed, it was. The bird remained patiently on its perch until everyone had a good photo, then dived into the water in front of us, emerged with a small fish and flew off, never to be seen again by us.

We then continued to the Chobe rapids. On the rocks of the rapids numerous Rock Pratincoles were breeding or resting. The colony of Yellow-billed Storks had already broken up, but the young birds were still sitting on the rocks. In a tree we could see that all the white egrets were still in the middle of the breeding season. Particularly nice at the Chobe is that you can see Yellow-billed Egret, Great White Egret, Cattle Egret and Little Egret all close together and compare them perfectly.

We continued into the Kasai Channel. But it did not take long before our enthusiasm waned, because we all had one thing in common: we were hungry. Peter wanted to do a short walk on land, as we had done on other tours, in order to look for a few birds there, but there was not much enthusiasm. We did the short walk anyway and saw African Stonechat, a Wattled Lapwing and several swallows, including Wire-tailed Swallow, Brown-throated Martin, Sand Martin and a Luapula Cisticola.

But when the hunger pangs set in, the air goes out of things, and so we returned to the lodge, stopping briefly to admire two African Fish Eagles perched majestically in a tree. Back at the lodge we were greeted by a truly outstanding breakfast with plenty of fresh fruit, wonderful watermelon and everything else one could wish for. The coffee was nice and strong and despite the mercilessly rising heat everyone was in surprisingly good spirits.

Today we had for the first time a really long break over midday, since the afternoon boat trip was not scheduled to leave until three. I lay down on the bed, wanting to sort some photos, but promptly fell into a deep travel-induced sleep. We were a bit worried about rain, but it did not catch us out and we were rewarded with an elephant-blessed afternoon.

Mona had been wishing for days to see elephants walking through water and I told her, “Ask Peter, he’ll make it happen. Maybe.”

First we saw a very large herd of elephants. In every shape and size they stood drinking at the water. That sight alone was extremely entertaining and impressive in the fantastic light. We had almost ticked elephants off when two bulls appeared at the opposite bank of Kasika Island and slowly walked down towards the water. First they slid down the bank on their front legs, then they stretched out their hind legs and, lying almost on their sides, scrambled down until they finally disappeared playfully together in the water.

Sometimes one was on top, then the other. Directly in front of our eyes these elephants kept disappearing into the depths and reappearing, one climbing on the other’s back, until they eventually reached the far bank. Peter kept manoeuvring the boat so that we always had the best view and I think everyone on board was more than blown away by this experience. I myself had never seen elephants walking through water in this way. It was truly a deep tug at the soul.

On the opposite bank they scratched themselves on the bank’s geology; one of them seemed to have a particularly itchy posterior, and we continued on to the other side of Kasika Island where we watched a few more birds. I misidentified a starling and was briefly annoyed about it, but nothing could really spoil the mood any more.

A troop of baboons occupied the bank to the displeasure of a White-crowned Lapwing which was loudly calling, whistling, whatever. One baboon lay on its back, genitals in the air, shameless, looking at us sleepily… whatever it had been up to before. The way humanity is currently developing, we might one day well be the ancestors of the apes – but that is another topic.

Day 16 – 25.11.2025 – “Ni tumezi”

Actually I had wanted to have breakfast very early, but the lodge accommodated us and we were allowed to eat at seven instead of half past seven. Afterwards we checked out, crossed by boat over to Kasane and entered Botswana. In the garden of Chobe Safari Lodge we searched for Collared Palm Thrush and found two birds very quickly. They showed themselves wonderfully close. We also enjoyed the presence of a White-browed Robin-chat.

Afterwards I drove the group to a place I had discovered on an earlier trip during a short roadside stop, where I had once seen Cut-throat Finches and Three-banded Courser. It was already very hot and while at first the whole group followed me, the blazing sun soon beat down hard and our numbers gradually dwindled as we searched for the birds. It pained me a little that not everyone stayed, but you cannot force happiness on people.

And as fate would have it, something suddenly scurried under the trees. Mark drew my attention to it. We approached slowly and there it stood, about twenty metres away: a Three-banded Courser. It must be said that this is probably the most beautiful of all coursers: the striping, the colours, the pattern – it is a sheer delight to look at this bird. And yes, as I like to put it, an ornithological orgasm.

At first it only showed us its back, but even that view alone was enough. Then it turned around and revealed itself in all its glory. Later Mona asked whether this had been my most beautiful experience of the journey, and I must say it came very, very close. A genuine moment of happiness.

We walked on a little, heard one or another bird call and saw the expected Cut-throat Finches at some distance, though not very well. In order not to keep the others waiting too long we made our way back to the vehicle and continued to the border, where we exited Botswana and entered Zimbabwe. At the border my “friend” Themba helped me with the formalities, a friend whose affection can certainly be bought, but nevertheless I am grateful to have someone who can help speed up a process that can otherwise drag on endlessly.

In good weather we reached Victoria Falls and spent the afternoon in a lodge whose garden I knew from earlier visits for Fulvous Whistling Duck, Northern Grey-headed Sparrow and Red-winged Starling – nice to see while enjoying a cappuccino with a small shot of Amarula, which we savoured there.

Perhaps important to mention is that on arrival we immediately went to a helipad to organise a helicopter flight for those interested, or to fly straight away. And indeed, a helicopter was available and just a few minutes later everyone had decided to fly. Mona invited me and I was incredibly grateful. I had not been up for a long time and it was a fantastic experience, a wonderful first impression for our guests.

Afterwards we went through dense thickets and in the mopane savanna we took a short walk where we were able to observe Cut-throat Finches once again, this time excellently while they were feeding and perching in the trees. Really great.

We ended the evening at the well-known Lookout Café with a magnificent view and an excellent dinner.

Day 17 – 26.11.2025 – “Mosi-oa-Tunya” and “Ni tumezi”

This morning we had breakfast at seven and then went straight into the national park at Victoria Falls. Of course the entrance fee is not exactly cheap, 50 US dollars, but in my opinion it is worth it, if only because of the marvellous spray forest.

Slowly and thoughtfully we walked through the spray forest of the national park at Victoria Falls. The sky was overcast, no sunlight penetrated the dense canopy and in this moist silence it was difficult to spot anything at all. The spray forest is a unique habitat because there is almost constant drizzle. As a result, a special plant world thrives here and of course interesting bird species as well.

I thought back to how I had once seen Brown-backed Honeybird, Schalow’s Turaco, Trumpeter Hornbill and many others here and how hard I had worked to find some movement somewhere.

Suddenly we discovered a flowering orchid, Eulophia guineensis, on the ground which I had never seen here before. Immediately everyone bent down in delight, took photographs, compared features and enjoyed this small miracle of the forest. Josef declared with complete conviction that this was the absolute highlight of our trip.

On the one hand I was happy about this discovery, on the other a slight melancholy crept over me. What about the memories of all the species that we had worked so hard for? Of Dune Lark, of Damara Tern, of Herero Chat, of the dancing Secretary Bird, of Bare-cheeked Babblers, of Black-faced Babblers, of Rufous-bellied Tit, of Souza’s Shrike, of African Finfoot and of African Snipe. All these lively experiences full of movement suddenly seemed to fade behind a quiet, almost inconspicuous little plant, however fantastically beautiful it might be.

But one has to accept that everyone has different interests. What triggers an unforgettable feeling in some passes more quietly by others. So Mark agreed in principle with what was said but added, “I would not quite leave it at that…” and so I peered all the more intently around me, hoping to spot long-desired species such as Red-faced Cisticola.

The weather was rainy, but the rain never became heavy. Here and there we were sprinkled with a few drops, but nobody was bothered by that. We saw beautiful mammals, bushbuck with their bambi-like appearance, and fine birds such as Red-faced Cisticola, Black-collared Barbet and again and again White-browed Robin-chat. Bearded Scrub-Robin also appeared briefly, a species we had already seen the previous day.

I explained to the group how unfortunate it was that so far we had only heard the hornbills at a great distance even though the figs were ripe. That is usually a good sign, but until then there had been no success. How fortunate that Andrea stayed attentive and kept her eyes exactly where the figs were growing, in a fig tree, Ficus sur. Suddenly she said, “There is a big dark bird in the fig tree!” And how good that she noticed this, because we had already passed that tree before when only starlings were in it; the bird had flown in only briefly – brilliant.

Because as a parting gift we were not treated to just any Trumpeter Hornbill but to a gigantic, magnificent male sitting there and allowing itself to be watched at leisure. It even allowed itself to be photographed while gorging on figs – a farewell gift.

We had one more lovely coffee and everyone wished me a safe journey home. With great humility and gratitude I must admit that Mark’s affectionate farewell words moved me deeply; he – or was it Andrea – had even prepared a small speech. I was truly touched by this appreciation.

We said goodbye warmly and they wished me a safe return journey, which at this point still measured around 1600 kilometres. And I jokingly said, “Now you don’t have to care whether anything happens to me or not.” To which Mona laughingly replied, “No, no – we still need the trip report!” Although this journey has been reported on far too often in recent years and I really do not have the time for all this word-threshing, I have nevertheless gladly written it down – it was a good trip after all.

Albert