Uganda 2026

13 June 2026 – Rising from the Desert I Call Home

Yesterday I left Walvis Bay, thanks Mum for the lift to the airport, and flew to a smoky, dust-filled Johannesburg, where fires seemed to be burning everywhere.

Departing from Walvis Bay is an experience in itself. You quite literally rise out of nothingness. The Namib Desert embraces you in every direction, stretching endlessly flat, interrupted only by a solitary granite hill known as Rooikop. Apart from that, there is simply… nothing.

Today, 13 June, has been an eventful day. Back home, Lisa celebrated the finissage, not the vernissage, the closing day of her exhibition, which, despite the winter cold and, as she would say, “the fact that it’s Swakopmund,” turned out to be a great success.

Meanwhile, I boarded my Uganda Airlines flight to Entebbe.

The aircraft was a Bombardier, and the gentleman seated beside me was reading a book by the notoriously aggressive and deeply divisive South African politician Julius Malema.

We exchanged the customary polite nod that strangers usually offer one another.

After a while, however, curiosity got the better of me.

“So,” I asked, “is that book actually digestible? In every sense of the word.”

He looked at me somewhat puzzled.

“What do you mean by digestible?”

I smiled.

“Well, sitting here beside you, I probably represent exactly the sort of person the author hates most. Secondly, it’s written by two authors, so you’ll have twice as much ideology to digest.”

Fortunately, the joke broke the ice before the conversation could drift into dangerous political waters.

Instead, it turned into one of those wonderfully unexpected conversations that make travelling so rewarding.

It turned out that he works for the United Nations while simultaneously running a small clothing factory in Entebbe, manufacturing uniforms. He spoke with quiet optimism about building his business through hard work and perseverance. Like me, he is deeply concerned about the rapidly changing world order and what the future may hold for Africa.

Landing in Entebbe always feels special.

“Whoever arrives in Entebbe does not simply enter Uganda, but also one of Africa’s most historically significant airports. Set between the shores of Lake Victoria, the legacy of colonial history and the famous Operation Entebbe, this airport is far more than just a transport hub.”

As we touched down, he looked out of the window and said thoughtfully,

“How can Entebbe be one of Africa’s oldest airports and still show so little development? How is that possible? It’s probably the bananas. Matoke is to blame. People have too much food and too little reason to work.”

When we stepped off the aircraft into an impressively modern airport shuttle bus, I couldn’t resist replying,

“Look at this bus. What more could anyone ask for? We’re travelling along a perfectly paved road in a brand new bus towards a newly renovated terminal.”

He burst into laughter.

We parted ways feeling almost like old acquaintances.

Unfortunately, my own arrival was slightly less straightforward.

My Health Declaration had expired, forcing me to complete the entire process again on my phone while wrestling with unreliable mobile internet until the long-awaited QR code finally approved my arrival.

Thankfully, the Ugandan immigration officers were exceptionally friendly and patient, making the whole ordeal surprisingly painless.

Soon afterwards I met Ibrahim, who had come to collect me, and we drove through the warm evening to the comfortable Airport Guesthouse.

By then, one thing occupied my thoughts above all else:

Dinner.

I was absolutely starving.

14 June 2026 – “You Cannot Have What You Have Not Built”

Today’s journey took us from Entebbe through Kampala and Jinja before continuing eastwards to the beautiful Sipi Falls, where we would spend the night at Sipi Heritage Lodge on the slopes of Mount Elgon.

The roadside never ceased to fascinate.

Small engineering workshops, fruit stalls and tiny family businesses lined the road for hundreds of kilometres. Everywhere people were welding steel, building beds, hammering sheet metal into pots, pans and cooking vessels. Motorcycle repair shops seemed to appear every few hundred metres, interspersed with vendors selling spare parts and accessories. Mosques alternated with Christian churches, reflecting Uganda’s remarkable religious diversity.

The roads themselves belong to the famous boda bodas.

These small motorcycles are the lifeblood of Ugandan transport, weaving effortlessly through impossible traffic jams. Their name originates from the phrase “border to border,” as they originally served as rapid transport across frontier crossings.

Life here happens not merely beside the road but on it.

Traffic follows its own unwritten rules, governed by whoever dares, whoever honks loudest and whoever possesses the strongest nerves. Add the surprising daytime heat, despite it technically being winter, and long journeys can become mentally exhausting. Progress often feels painfully slow, even though hundreds of kilometres still lie ahead.

At one point Ibrahim stopped at a filling station with a small roadside restaurant.

Although I had initially waved off the idea, insisting I wasn’t hungry, he wisely ignored me.

I ordered half a grilled chicken.

It was, to borrow one of my late father-in-law’s favourite expressions,

“remarkably decent in the way it tasted.”

Only then did I realise just how hungry I had actually been.

Thank goodness Ibrahim had insisted.

During the drive we also spoke about Uganda’s history, particularly the expulsion of the Indian community under Idi Amin.

At one point Ibrahim quoted a phrase that has remained with me ever since:

“You cannot have what you have not built.”

He explained that after the expulsion many businesses and properties were simply taken over, yet the expertise that had built them disappeared overnight. In his opinion, Uganda struggled to fill that vacuum, and he felt that diligence and craftsmanship were often lacking.

Whether one agrees entirely or not, one thing is immediately obvious:

Uganda is moving forward.

Everywhere people are making things.

Furniture, steel bedsteads, wooden beds, even complete round huts are built first and only afterwards offered for sale.

Build it first.

Hope the customer comes later.

A wonderfully direct form of economics.

I was also struck by the quality of many roadside blacksmiths and metalworkers. Hidden among the countless humble workshops were pieces of craftsmanship that would not have looked out of place anywhere in the world.

Birding today consisted mainly of the species commonly encountered along Uganda’s roads.

We repeatedly saw Pied Crows, Marabou Storks and African Openbills, accompanied by Eastern Plantain-eaters, Splendid Starlings, Rüppell’s Starlings, a Wahlberg’s Eagle, a Long-crested Eagle, countless Hadada Ibises and various herons.

One species appeared particularly frequently:

the Lizard Buzzard, usually perched bolt upright while patiently scanning for prey.

One delightful moment came when an Abyssinian Ground Hornbill stared at me with almost comic boldness from the roadside.

We were making good time, however, so I resisted the temptation to ask Ibrahim to stop.

Piapiacs appeared from time to time, while the wetlands held Village Weavers, Yellow-billed Storks, African Openbills, Black Herons, Sacred Ibises, Glossy Ibises, Cattle Egrets and Black-headed Herons.

Red-eyed Doves repeatedly lined the telephone wires.

In Uganda, hardly a minute passes without discovering something alive and interesting beside the road.

Our accommodation, Sipi Heritage Lodge, lives up to its name.

The emphasis here is clearly on local culture, ecological sustainability and harmonious integration into the surrounding landscape.

Native trees and flowering plants surround the lodge, and birdsong fills the air from dawn until dusk.

Among the highlights was the magnificent African Paradise Flycatcher, currently in full breeding plumage. The male, dressed entirely in black and white, carries astonishingly long tail streamers that fan elegantly behind him each time he takes flight.

Shortly before sunset we walked down to the waterfalls for a little birding.

There I recorded a personal lifer, the Mountain Wagtail.

Nearby, a female African Dusky Flycatcher was feeding her youngster, while a Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird searched the canopy for insects.

I was equally fascinated by Uganda’s only native wild banana species, beautiful to look at, but sadly inedible.

The African Blue Flycatcher once again danced ahead of us, flashing its brilliant blue plumage and elegant tail.

Photographing it, however, proved as frustrating as ever.

Set the white balance to shade.

Never fast enough.

Always too dark.

Always one second too late.

Perhaps I should simply have remained a farmer.

Photography, after all, is clearly a profession for real experts.

Later we stopped beneath a huge jackfruit tree.

Standing beneath it was a strikingly beautiful young woman dressed in a bright blue dress.

She was Ibrahim’s wife.

He simply wanted to hand her some money before we continued our journey.

The encounter offered a fascinating glimpse into local culture.

Among certain ethnic groups in central Uganda, women kneel briefly when greeting their husbands as a sign of respect, and perhaps also affection. I had read about the custom before, although it is by no means practised throughout Uganda, especially not in the western parts of the country.

This time I witnessed it with my own eyes.

She embraced Ibrahim warmly, clearly overjoyed to see him. Her eyes sparkled with happiness. Then, almost before I realised what had happened, she gracefully knelt for a brief moment before rising again just as quickly.

As she spoke, her gaze dropped momentarily before meeting his once more.

Then life simply continued.

Naturally, I couldn’t help thinking of my wonderfully emancipated wife and my mother-in-law.

Both of them would almost certainly have laughed and asked whether we men had actually done anything to deserve having someone kneel before us…

I’d like to think we have. 🙂

15 June 2026 – “You Are Most Welcome”

The day began early. At six o’clock, as agreed, I stood ready and was immediately given, and I may celebrate this with an exclamation mark, a truly good plantation coffee. Strong, good, and plenty of it. Alongside it, a bowl of fruit. Uganda and fruit… oh yeah!

Ibrahim ordered a hearty breakfast with pancakes and scrambled eggs. Our drive took us into the Kapkwai Forest area of Mount Elgon National Park. The road was terribly bad, but thank God not very long, only a good twenty kilometres.

At the entrance stood a friendly ranger armed with an AK 47, who welcomed us with the words, “You are most welcome.”

At the end of the day, Ibrahim asked me how my day had been. And with a perfectly clear conscience, I can say: peaceful.

We spent the entire day in that forest. There were no other tourists. Well laid out trails, completely intact nature, gigantic trees, native shrubs, and a birdlife that kept gluing our binoculars to our eyes.

Right after we arrived, Ibrahim had to pay the entrance fees. Just then, a small Olive Baboon came running towards me. I thought, well, I’ll just give him a little kick up the backside so he moves on.

But the animal jumped at me. First it wrapped itself around my legs, and I had no idea what was happening. I got quite a fright. Then the baboon climbed up me like I was a pole, grabbed at my binoculars, and suddenly sat on me like a baby.

I had absolutely no idea how to react, because the baboon seemed almost to be laughing. It threw itself backwards, hung upside down screaming for a while, and clung to me with its legs as well. It was confusingly strange!

From Madagascar I was used to lemurs grabbing at me, illegally trying to steal a banana from my hand. But a baboon climbing onto me, that was something I had never experienced before.

It is difficult to describe that feeling of suddenly sensing a rough little baboon hand. Somehow it felt both alien and strangely familiar at the same time. As if one were dealing with a small wild child, with no fear of contact whatsoever, demanding attention in a rather pushy way.

The day, by the way, was to unfold in the following constellation: Albert as the mzungu, mzungu meaning something like the wandering white man, or so, leading the way, Ibrahim as national guide at my side, two armed rangers, who were also very interested in birds and surprisingly knowledgeable, and a female student who was apparently just learning that there was quite a bit about nature she did not yet know, while constantly chewing on her pen.

Since she was also quite pleasant to look at, and strutted proudly in front of the rangers with her round backside, one can imagine that they made quite an effort with their student, which at times was embarrassingly funny.

And then, last but not least, this little baboon followed us every step of the way. When we stopped, he sat. When we sat down, he lay down, rolled in the dust, or ate something. Every now and then the little baboon jumped onto someone, received a kick, was chased away, and then again not. It was simply too delicious to watch this flexible creature.

The target birds of the day were Hartlaub’s Turaco, various greenbuls, and the very common White-headed Wood Hoopoes here. A Great Blue Turaco also flew over us with loud, heavy wingbeats.

The bird that occupied us most, and irritated me most, was the Mountain Illadopsis. It is just the way it is, one always wants precisely what one cannot have. This bird could only be guessed at in the undergrowth by the moving leaves, but there was no real sighting to speak of. Could I photograph it? Not really. I have one picture somewhere in the green, where you can just about see the eye. That’s it! It is always like a small competition with yourself. Can you photograph in a dark green room and somehow catch a moving, shy, invisible bird?

Around midday we returned to the vehicle, but had to eat our lunch locked inside, because this baboon had obviously already been fed by tourists and had by now become completely unrestrained and badly behaved.

While we ate, he climbed around the vehicle in a highly acrobatic manner and at monkey speed, pun intended. He screamed, bit the windows, looked at himself in the mirror, screamed again, bent the mirror, pulled up the windscreen wiper, jumped back onto the vehicle, yelled at us again, and really tried absolutely everything to get inside.

In the afternoon we went out once more and walked through the forest. Everyone was willing to continue with me even deeper into the upper slope forests. But for me, it had been enough. I called time, and so we slowly made our way back.

Interesting birds of the day included Black-collared Apalis, Black-throated Wattle-eye, which even showed itself several times, Black-billed Weaver, Mountain Wagtail, and Cabanis’s Greenbul.

It should be said, however, that birding in the forest is always a difficult affair. There is almost never enough light. The birds sit high up in the canopy, move constantly, and often disappear again before one has properly found them in the binoculars.

Still, it was an intense and beautiful time. Over the course of the day, our species list grew to more than 40 bird species, which was actually quite alright.

As a farewell, three African Harrier Hawks circled above us. That too was interesting to observe, because one does not see three of these raptors together every day.

I was quite glad to be back in my room a little earlier, so I still had some time for myself. With great pleasure I entered my room named “Toben”. In Luganda, this means something like “beautiful view”, in this case directly onto the Sipi Falls, which poured down over the rocks high above me, surrounded by the most beautiful forest landscape.

There is something special about sitting on a terrace after a long day full of impressions, with the waterfalls in front of you, and simply listening. The steady roar of the water, the bird calls from the forest, and the fresh mountain air ensured that the day ended just as peacefully as it had begun.

16 June 2026 – Fox on the Run

Meeting time was five o’clock for a quick coffee, then departure in the dark. We left Sipi Falls and entered the wide open plains of Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve.

Pian Upe roughly means something like “friendly enemies” or “enemy friends”. The name goes back to the two pastoral groups, the Pian and the Upe, who lived in this region and had a changing relationship with one another over a long period of time.

We set off in darkness, and since we were near the equator, there is almost no twilight here. Suddenly, golden morning light transformed the landscape into a beautiful painting.

To our right rose the mighty Mount Elgon, 4,321 metres high. This extinct volcano was once even higher than Kilimanjaro and is one of the oldest volcanoes in East Africa.

Directly ahead of us towered Mount Kadam, 3,063 metres high. From a distance, with its flat summit structure, it looks almost like a smaller version of Table Mountain. This striking mountain of the Karamoja region is still inhabited on its remote slopes by some of the last speakers of the rare Soo language.

Between them lay an endless expanse of tall grass and acacias, standing in the landscape like carefully placed jewels. In the first morning light, the grasses glowed gold, while the cool night air still lingered over the plain and the new day had only just begun.

I am fascinated by these open grasslands covered with whistling thorn, Vachellia drepanolobium. Do not be surprised by the term whistling thorn. They look insanely interesting, because at the base of the long white thorns they have round swellings, almost the size of ping pong balls. These are hollowed out and inhabited by ants in a mutualistic relationship. When the wind blows across the tiny openings, it whistles beautifully.

Again and again on the way in, we saw eland, topi, and Jackson’s hartebeest along the roadside. At headquarters we had to take along, as is usual in Uganda, an armed local ranger, who was also immediately our guide, well, often self appointed, but usually likeable and good.

Today’s main target was Fox’s Weaver. Karamoja Apalis was also on the list. To be honest, I could have stayed right at headquarters, because I was already photographing myself silly with the birdlife around the camp alone.

Then the drive began, and it did not take long before we saw Patas Monkeys along the roadside. A group of ostriches, which I would otherwise have ignored, suddenly became very impressive here. Unlike ours, they had very pale necks and striking black plumage. How beautiful they were. In the distance, Nubian Giraffes could also be seen.

We stopped in the peaceful morning atmosphere. The light was fantastic, and we soon found the Karamoja Apalis, sitting politely and photographically perfectly on the whistling thorn, and shortly afterwards the Fox’s Weaver as well. Here it was clear that the weavers were already moulting out of breeding plumage. The search for a male Fox’s Weaver in full breeding dress therefore remained unsuccessful, but we saw enough females, or males in transitional or non breeding plumage.

This weaver is damned difficult to find, as it is a very widely scattered species. It does not live in colonies and is not above fleeing very quickly when an intruder enters its territory.

Also worth mentioning were the Yellow-throated Longclaws that repeatedly flew up from the road, Flappet Larks, Croaking Cisticolas, and many others providing non stop birding. Again and again, the beautiful loud call of the Black-crowned Tchagra made this morning an intense, one hundred percent individual nature experience.

It amazes me that in this fantastic landscape, with so many animals, with these colourful giraffes and ostriches, there was not a single other tourist apart from me. Of course, not everyone is interested in birds. But still. Unbelievable, this lush nature that everyone in southern Africa longs for so desperately. And I was allowed to enjoy it here completely on my own. A very great gift. Thank you, my Uganda, you paid a lot yesterday to be this peaceful today.

Since we still had a very, very long drive back to Entebbe ahead of us, where my guests were hopefully already waiting for me, we ended this morning nature drive shortly after ten and set off via Kampala towards Entebbe.

The return journey was a hard, long drive, blessed with plenty of traffic. Poor Ibrahim also had to deal with a tricky situation when a boda boda rider, one of those small motorcycle taxis, slipped and crashed into him. The woman rolled across the road, lucky she was rather round, and of course shouted angrily, if looks could kill! The thin, rather scrawny driver, by contrast, looked somewhat confused, the boda boda lay on its side beside us, and I immediately urged Ibrahim to keep driving. It was not his fault, he could do nothing about it, and we would only have blocked the traffic even more. “Let’s go, just go!”

Around six o’clock we arrived at the accommodation. I was deeply relieved that the murderous drive was over, and I think the person sitting to my right was even more relieved than I was. I greeted Ibrahim warmly and, right after checking in, was able to say hello to my guests Cornelia and Hans-Peter. It is lovely when one meets people and can immediately talk easily with them. It was obvious that we would get along well on this journey.

We then met for dinner together and looked forward to the next day.

Sadly, two members of the group had not come along, which was also completely understandable. Still, it dampened the mood a little, and we spoke about it.

We could fully understand the last minute cancellation, as it is certainly a tricky situation when you yourself are a virologist and then travel to a country that is currently making headlines because of Ebola. Not that anything has to happen, the likelihood is probably almost zero. But one never knows. And if something were to happen after all, then standing there as a virologist and saying, “I did it anyway,” would certainly not be particularly practical.

Damn disease. Poor country.

17 June 2026 – relaxed birding

The coffee tasted smooth and good. After breakfast, Crammy Wanyama, the owner of Avian Safaris, came to pick us up personally. Crammy and I know each other well, and I trust him completely. I am truly glad to have such a partner in Uganda, because reliability, together with punctuality, is nothing short of revolutionary!

Crammy took us to the Botanical Garden near Entebbe, and our morning walk there was blessed with almost absurdly good bird sightings. Great Blue Turacos flew over us and settled in groups in the trees. Eastern Plantain-eaters were easy to see. African Grey Parrots gurgled, cracked and screamed. Unfortunately, they did not sit side by side and kiss, as they so often do. So the desired kissing picture was not taken today, next time.

Early on, Ross’s Turacos were already quarrelling with Eastern Plantain-eaters in the trees. An African Thrush flew through the landscape in front of us. Various sunbirds, including Purple-banded Sunbird, Marico Sunbird, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Red-chested Sundbird and Olive-bellied Sunbird, repeatedly fed on the attractive flowers.

In the garden by the lake shore, we had wonderful encounters with the very rare Orange Weaver. The gentle splashing of the water was extremely soothing. High in the trees sat large groups of Splendid Starlings. Again and again, the Hadada Ibis called loudly above us.

Then came another top sighting, the Bat Hawk, once in flight and twice sitting side by side. A Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat flew past us.

So it was a varied and, above all, incredibly colourful birding session this morning. I was also very happy to see some beautiful dragonflies, including Banded Groundling, both male and female, as well as Red-veined Dropwing and Blue Lady.

When I looked up, I discovered an African Grey Woodpecker. We played the call, and kindly enough, both male and female came in. It is always wonderful when one can photograph the male and female of a species at the same time.

And then we were also treated to a Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill. Again, we were able to observe both male and female, and even photograph mating behaviour. Brilliant, really!

We had lunch at the Entebbe Mall. Since I could not make up my mind, I ordered a combination of everything, basically a plate for the undecided. A bit of fish, a bit of curry, a bit of chicken, a bit of rice, and all of it in such a huge portion that I felt I would not need to eat again for three days.

After that, nothing much happened for a while. At some point, all those pictures have to be processed too.

18 June 2026 – the Ancient Creature

Quarter past six, breakfast with a good omelette, a little cheese and tomato, and the coffee tasted good too. Then a short wait for Crammy, and off we went immediately to the Mabamba Swamps. One and a half hours of being shaken back and forth. The road was terribly bad.

Once we arrived at the Mabamba Swamps, we climbed into those long motorised wooden canoes, and immediately afterwards we glided through the quiet waters and channels of this wetland. Yellow-billed Ducks, African Swamphens, African Jacanas, Malachite Kingfishers, Long-toed Lapwings, Greater Swamp Warblers and Knob-billed Ducks passed us by.

It did not take long before we saw, in the reeds, a small gathering of about two or three other boats, with a few tourist heads, hatted, bald and capped, sticking out above the vegetation. So one of the sought after Shoebills had to be there.

Our angle of approach was wrong, and the young guide who was with us immediately recognised that the light was not right. We pushed back and made a wide arc. The engine was switched off, and we were paddled along until we reached a spot where suddenly, there it stood before us, this majestic creature from the family of pelicans, with a bill shaped, quite correctly, like a shoe, hence the name Shoebill.

Grey and mighty, with its deeply penetrating yellow eyes, it looked at us, shuffled two or three steps onwards, stood still, and then preened itself for a good three quarters of an hour. Naturally, this produced many photographic opportunities. The light was perfect, it was quiet, peaceful. Uganda, I love you so much.

I had hoped that the Shoebill would become hungry and start hunting again. But at some point Crammy asked whether we wanted to continue waiting for it to hunt, or whether we should look for other bird species, such as Lesser Jacana. Hans-Peter nodded his agreement, and we went a little deeper into the wetland.

Lesser Jacanas can indeed be found here, but they are relatively shy. Again and again one flew up here or there, just at the moment we had discovered it. Eventually even Crammy gave up and said, “So, you have seen it, is that enough?” And then I said, “Let us try once more.”

So the fellows turned the boat around and pushed even deeper into the wetland, where we actually managed to see two of them right next to each other, trotting around on the lily pads.

And high up in the sky, another Shoebill was circling, while an African Marsh Harrier was attacked in the air by a Long-toed Lapwing. That was action birding.

Afterwards we drove back to Entebbe over the bumpy road, ate wonderfully once again at the restaurant in the mall, joked about the enormous plates of delicious food set before us, drank an espresso and a coffee, bought the best ginger biscuits in the world, and rested in the afternoon.

19 June 2026 – Everyone Is Silent, Albert Talks

Quarter past six breakfast, then departure. Today’s destination was Lake Mburo National Park. We had not managed to get space at Rwakobo Rock Lodge for two nights, even though we had booked a good year in advance, so tonight we checked in at Hyena Hill Lodge for the first night, and would move to Rwakobo Rock Lodge for the second.

During the drive we stopped at the equator, where a local instructor explained the Coriolis force of the earth to us using three bowls. On one side the water drained clockwise, on the other side anticlockwise, and exactly on the equator line it flowed straight down. After a small technical discussion about this phenomenon, Crammy and I of course took the traditional equator photo. He leaned north, I leaned south, and in the middle we met again, a lovely symbol of our good cooperation. Then the journey continued.

On the way, we suddenly stopped at Katovu Wetland. Why? Right there beside the road stood a Shoebill, Balaeniceps rex. Where else does something like that happen? Apparently a pair has settled in this area, and one of them showed itself with cattle herds in the background and beautiful farms around a huge wetland, where many other stork and heron species could also be seen.

At some point Crammy had to whistle us back to continue, and we drove the longer stretch to Hyena Hill Lodge. A rather lovely lodge. Although simple, the rooms were beautiful, plain, and furnished with wood, and one had everything one needed. The welcome was also very friendly. As in all lodges, or at least most of them, coffee was available freely. This one was brewed very thick! Naturally, I like that when coffee is strong. On arrival, however, we were also given a large glass of freshly pressed pineapple juice, delicious.

Over midday I tried, in express mode, to sort through a few more pictures, because one basically always photographs too much and needs a lot of time afterwards, including deleting. I also tried to get a little closer to the dogs at the lodge. Interesting, though: wherever I am in Uganda, when I call dogs kindly or approach them, they act as if I do not exist at all. I think it has something to do with my white skin. I think the dogs cannot see me. No matter how I call them, they simply do not react. Well, probably just as well.

In the afternoon we drove to a spot where there was some water beside the road, and there we used the call of the Pearl-spotted Owlet as an alarm call to attract birds. This worked fantastically. For example, I was able to properly photograph Buff-bellied Warbler and Red-faced Crombec for the first time.

In the evening at the lodge, as darkness was falling, we stomped out once more and saw a Square-tailed Nightjar. Already when we arrived at the lodge, however, a Long-tailed Nightjar had flown up in front of us. Unfortunately, it landed in such a way that we could not continue observing it.

That evening I probably talked a little too much about farming, my workers on the farm, Crammy, and my future dream of exporting coffee. Still, it was a funny evening, and everyone went to bed happy with the day.

20 June 2026 – a Boat Trip, a Dream…

Another very early start today. We drove through the park in order to be at the boat by eight o’clock. The boat trip lasted less than two hours and was so impressive that I slipped into a kind of quiet ecstasy, and anyone who knows me knows how rare that is.

Beneath an Egyptian Riverhemp, Sesbania sesban, we saw a White-backed Night Heron. No, in fact it was a pair of White-backed Night Herons, with a nest and chicks inside. The nest was deeply hidden, but one could make out the small, tousled little creatures within.

Then we stopped at a place right beside the papyrus, almost lagoon-like. Crammy played a few bird calls. Suddenly, a Carruthers’s Cisticola appeared clearly, a really good bird, as we say in birding circles. A good bird in good light. Usually one says jokingly, good bird, bad light. But this time the light was fantastic, and so was the bird.

Shortly afterwards, the White-winged Swamp Warbler also appeared. It showed itself only very briefly, but clearly enough.

And then came the ornithological orgasm. A Papyrus Gonolek danced through the reeds, slipped through the leaves, and hopped straight out into the open onto an outer papyrus stem. It not only allowed itself to be photographed and observed, but also began calling loudly. Man, what an experience! I love these birds!

We saw many other waterbirds as well, but this boat trip was simply the absolute bomb. Crocodiles, hippos en masse, and along the banks again and again Warthogs coming down to drink. A landscape straight out of a fairytale picture book.

On the onward drive, we saw an impala with gigantic horns. I told Crammy that there could hardly be any shortage of phosphate or nutrition here. There must be minerals here in abundance, because the horns of the animals grow almost immeasurably large.

Defassa Waterbucks were repeatedly seen along the roadside, again and again in beautiful rolling landscapes. Alongside them, Topis. The Topi, by the way, is regarded by some as a subspecies of the Tsessebe, while other authors treat it as a species in its own right. It depends who you believe.

Then two Grey-backed Fiscals and a Saddle-billed Stork kept positioning themselves in such a way that whatever they were eating could not be seen. That was extremely frustrating. The Grey-backed Fiscals had a mouse in their bills, and it would have been the perfect photo, if the damned creatures had not always sat with their backs to me. The Saddle-billed Stork had caught a huge lungfish and ate it in exactly such a way that there was always grass in front of him. And so my camera kept focusing on the grass instead of the Saddle-billed Stork. Ha, did I perhaps curse loudly, of course at the camera.

Incidentally, Grant’s Zebras, Equus quagga boehmi, also known as Böhm’s Zebras, are everywhere in the park. Fantastically striped, clearly smaller than the zebras of southern Africa, and with their black and white contrast pattern, they stand out beautifully from the landscape.

The Nubian Giraffes, often also called Rothschild’s Giraffes, can also be seen here in the park. They create a wonderfully colourful picture among the various acacias, which stand like umbrella acacias in the green landscape.

At midday, the lodge manager walked a large loop with us through the thicket, a little away from the lodge, and showed us the nightjars. It is almost impossible to put into words how well camouflaged these birds are. We are talking about a situation in which he points under a tree with his finger, and our eyes simply cannot register the nightjar because of its incredible camouflage. The aha moment when one finally discovers the nightjar is short-lived, however, because as soon as one lifts the lens to the eye, one has to search for it all over again.

In this way we saw Slender-tailed Nightjar, Square-tailed Nightjar and Fiery-necked Nightjar. In the evening, we were also able to observe Freckled Nightjar in flight.

In the afternoon we returned once more to Lake Mburo National Park, where we looked at many interesting birds, stopped again frequently for Defassa Waterbucks, zebras and especially Topis, and also managed to get the bird of the afternoon, the Long-tailed Cisticola, very nicely and photogenically onto our memory cards.

In the evening, Hans-Peter remarked that the food at the lodge was fantastic and that, in general, the food on this journey was considerably better than he had imagined.

21 June 2026 – a Walk in Uganda

The morning walk was blessed first of all by a Nubian Woodpecker. In the rising sun, the landscape presented itself picturesquely, with trees full of sunbirds, including Marico Sunbird, Purple-banded Sunbird, Scarlet-chested Sunbird and Green-headed Sunbird.

On departure, Grant’s Zebras were visible among the gigantic Candelabra Euphorbias, Euphorbia candelabrum. This landscape image can probably be ticked off as one of the most unique in Africa.

Today we were heading uphill, up into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest towards Ruhija. The drive was pleasant and smooth.

On the way we saw an Augur Buzzard. Because of its size, it confused me completely at first, and I initially took it for a Bateleur. A major careless mistake. Naturally, being the character I am, I first argued vehemently against the correction, until Crammy taught me better and pointed out the colour of the tail. Then, of course, I knew it immediately, it had simply not occurred to me in that moment… obviously 🙂

Along the way we saw several gatherings of Grey Crowned Cranes, as well as a Chubb’s Cisticola, which showed itself well.

Lunch was taken en route at a restaurant, where I noticed that my guests hesitated a little at the buffet, as the traditional preparation of the chicken did not quite match the culinary appearance one is used to at home. There was also quite a lot of fat worked into the meat, which in many countries is certainly considered a delicacy. Still, it tasted reasonably good, halfway at least.

In front of the restaurant stood a gigantic monument, consisting of many, probably carved human figures climbing up a pillar, each symbolising something different. It was a fantastic monument. I immediately sent Lisa a photo of it, and she simply wrote back, “That is art!”

We then reached the edge of the forest, and my ears were already popping, as by now we were at about 2,500 metres above sea level. Shortly afterwards we reached Gorilla Mist Camp in good spirits.

Along the way there was also a brief encounter with a few L’Hoest’s Monkeys, which ran across the road and then leapt through the trees above. We even managed to get some nice photographs of them.

At Gorilla Mist Camp there was then a Rwenzori or Johnston’s Three-horned Chameleon to photograph, followed by a little time to chill.

22 June 2026, “in the Mist”

Seeing the gorillas requires quite an introduction. After an early breakfast, we drove to the place where all tourists are briefed, and sat down as if in a classroom, obediently waiting for the briefing to begin.

First came the so-called entertainment. A large group of local women from the area then delivered their rhythmic singing, partly also shouting, stamping, dancing and hopping, at a truly ear-splitting volume. In front of us sat a young couple, and the girl clearly had a great deal of fun. Well, I thought, if she is enjoying it, then all of this has its good side. Only it seemed as if it would never end…

Eventually, after many speeches of thanks, and after many baskets had been sent around so that one, and also the lady in front of me, could put something into them, the actual briefing finally took place and we were assigned to our groups. Unfortunately, we were in a very large group of no fewer than nine people, apparently due to some allocation error. Never mind, we were not going to let that spoil our mood.

We drove to a point from where the hike to the gorillas began. Cornelia took a porter, Hans-Peter carried his own backpack, and I also took a porter, even though I did not really need one. But Crammy had advised me to support the local community. In hindsight, I was actually quite glad, because it allowed me to handle my camera better and I had someone to hold the camera during lens changes.

The hike to the gorillas is genuinely challenging. One has to imagine it like this: very steep and with no established path. The people in front trample the vegetation flat, and if one steps on these flattened long plant stems, they can be as slippery as soft soap, and one can very quickly land on one’s backside.

It is incredibly exhausting, because every step could be the one on which you slip. It is very steep, difficult to walk, and extremely stressful because it is constantly tense. One is permanently afraid of falling.

Eventually we reached the point where we had to put on our face masks. Our guide, whom I loudly christened Teacher because she treated us like children and constantly gave instructions in a lecturing tone, indicated that this was exactly the moment to put the masks on. After that, we were allowed to approach the gorillas.

Unfortunately, the gorillas were on a very steep, densely vegetated slope, and we only ever saw them briefly, in fragments and in parts. It was therefore truly challenging to take good pictures, as the gorillas were mostly either hidden by foliage or blocked by other tourists in our group. I was nervous, because one could see the misfortune on Hans-Peter’s face, as he was being considerate and therefore never really got a proper chance to have the animals in front of him.

When we arrived, the silverback first performed a mock charge. With loud and mighty crashing, he came rushing through the undergrowth towards us. The rangers and trackers, however, remained completely calm and spoke soothingly to him. In fact, he immediately calmed down again. Well yes, I was properly scared, I admit it!

Unfortunately, one could never really see him properly, and I did not manage to take any photograph of him at all, as he was always hidden by leaves. A few females, on the other hand, were much easier to see and at least gave us some lovely observations.

Of course, there were better moments after all. I withdrew a little and joined the tracker who was standing with Hans-Peter and Cornelia. In this way we were able to watch three females feeding very beautifully and from very close range. One female stretched herself along a trunk and chilled there in complete relaxation. This allowed us to take good photographs of feeding gorillas, but also of gorillas picking their noses or rubbing their eyes. This situation rescued the Gorilla Adventure quite considerably after all.

I then dared to push some foliage aside so that I could photograph one of the females better. In doing so, however, I apparently broke off a twig that she herself had still intended to eat. Immediately food envy arose, and she attacked me. Within fractions of a second another female was there to support her, because these animals support one another very strongly. Thank God nothing happened to me, but she made it very loud and very clear that one does not tamper with her food, that I should please keep my distance, that this forest belongs to her, and that this foliage is to be eaten by her and not by me. Well, I thought, do not worry, I am certainly not going to eat it away from you. I think my trousers stayed dry… lucky me!

A wasp stung me in the neck, and I knocked my glasses off my nose, sending them flying in a high arc. Why do they always sting me? Little sins are punished immediately, you know! One of the trackers gave me an ointment, which perhaps helped, perhaps.

We were then also able to see the silverback peering through the leaves. There was also a mother with a small youngster, which was very sweetly visible for a brief moment.

Eventually our Teacher, who by the way was a very likeable young woman, and of course meant everything well, told us that we had already spent one hour and fifteen minutes with the gorillas, and had therefore exceeded the allotted time. For that reason, we now had to leave the animals in peace again and begin the return walk.

On the way back it became very warm. Cornelia in particular really had to fight, and I felt very sorry for her. She had already voiced her concerns beforehand about whether this hike in the heat might perhaps become too strenuous. But I must say: top performance, what that woman achieved. Definitely recommended for future generations to imitate!

Before we drove back to the lodge, there was a big farewell. We were all even given a certificate. It was funny that Teacher told us we should absolutely keep this certificate safe, because it was worth more than all the other certificates we might have, even if we were professors or doctors. Firstly, gorilla tracking is VERY EXPENSIVE, and secondly, it is something very special. She then went on to list all the places where we absolutely must not forget the certificate: not in the hotel, not in the car, not on the plane, but please frame it at home and hang it on the wall.

After the giving of tips, we finally drove back to the lodge. There we ate our packed lunches, drank a good coffee, and had the afternoon at leisure.

In the late afternoon, around five o’clock, we met again for a small birdwatching walk. Among other things, we were able to observe Olive Pigeon, several bulbul species, Rwenzori Apalis, Equatorial Akalat, Kikuyu Mountain Greenbul, the interesting Red-faced Woodland Warbler, as well as several white-eyes and much more.

In the evening we had further conversations about land rights, property ownership, corrupt politicians and cooperatives. With this came a Stroganoff-like dish, thematically rather fitting, which once again testified to the good cuisine of Uganda.

23 June 2026 – Diesel and Dust

Rain can have its advantages. There are probably some who wish the rain away, but it would have been quite practical to have the odd little shower to wash the dust from the road.

We walked along School Road, which is indeed what the track is called on eBird, scanning the forest, the canopy on the left and the slope on the right for birds. Again and again, however, cars and boda bodas passed us. And do not think that a boda boda is narrower than a car, because on the back they transport pigs in large tubs, crosswise poles, bananas, cages full of chickens, or even four or five people at the same time, and then they race, roll or putter past, depending on the condition and age of the boda boda.

Often quite dangerous when one is standing on a descending slope, because the boda bodas then switch off the engine and roll downhill silently, without one really hearing them, at least not until the very last moment. We were regularly wrapped in a cloud of dust, which inevitably settled into the deepest parts of the ears and, of course, all over the camera. That was rather annoying.

But the birdlife was something else. And Crammy pointed machine gun style at the rich birdlife around us. It was very beautiful to watch Blue Monkeys swinging through the trees and often leaping many, many metres through the air. Rather frustrating to photograph, but a joy to watch.

We were also able to photograph Carruthers’s Mountain Squirrel and Boehm’s Bush Squirrel, and on departure the world famous Johnston’s Three-horned Chameleon. Admittedly, we did not find it ourselves, the gardener brought it to us, but one can always pretend…

I do not want to list every bird we saw in the travel report. Still, the Mountain-masked Apalis, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Red-faced Woodland Warbler, Grey Cuckooshrike, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, African Olive Pigeon, Rwenzori Batis with its small bright spotlights on the forehead, and Lühder’s Bushshrike may certainly be mentioned, as they offered much better views and repeatedly put joy on the faces of my dear guests.

The drive then continued, and we came to a narrow place known here as “The Neck”. There one stands on the bridge and can watch Cassin’s Flycatcher on the rocks. Only in the photo did I see that the bill already begins to open long before the bird actually takes off. And I had indeed taken a picture in which the little moth is flying directly in front of the bird. Absolutely wonderful.

At the actual Neck we also saw African Black Duck, and high up in the trees a Black-billed Turaco flew past. Man, how beautiful it was, crossing the sky again and again with its bright red wing feathers.

The winner of the day? Clearly the Black Bee-eater. Unfortunately high up, but the moment one looked through the binoculars, the colours hit the eye.

High in the trees we also saw Green-throated Sunbird, Red-headed Malimbe, Dark-backed Weaver and a few other species. Unfortunately, everything was very far away, very high up and accordingly difficult to observe.

As consolation, and to relax the neck a little, a Banded Prinia danced through the low vegetation.

Afterwards we checked in at Buhoma Haven Lodge, a community lodge that was genuinely well run. The rooms were spacious and practically furnished, modern and very clean.

24 June 2026 – Rain and Runs

On this journey we are seeing Bwindi Impenetrable Forest at different altitudes. We deliberately visited the gorillas at the higher level, where we were above 2,500 metres. Now we are at about 1,500 metres. What is interesting about the birdlife, of course, is that altitude plays a very major role in the distribution of species.

This morning, after an early breakfast, we first went into the so-called secondary forest. These are reacquired areas where the forest has been bought back from local people and added back to the national park. Ultimately, the people living here also benefit from this through community projects, community rest camps and community lodges. We are staying in one such lodge ourselves, and for LeafLove Safari this is exactly how we would do it, since local communities always play an important role for us.

Afterwards we visited the primary forest on foot. The path was easy and pleasant to walk, and the birdlife all the richer for it. More than 62 species. The search for the Bar-tailed Trogon was especially wonderful. I managed to photograph one. Unfortunately, my guests were always just a fraction too late and only saw the trogon in flight. I am very sorry about that.

From the bird list one will be able to see that we observed countless different bulbul species. As far as I know, there are more than 17 members of this family here. Alongside the butterflies beside the trail, a wonderful observation was a Rwenzori Red Duiker, which ran across the path. I even managed to see it standing quite close beside the track for a brief moment. But as always, we looked into each other’s eyes, I full of reverence, the duiker full of fear. I lifted the camera, and the duiker was gone.

A Boehm’s Tree Squirrel also danced through the branches, and L’Hoest’s Monkeys grunted and called loudly through the forest, over which dense mist lay today like a cloak, giving the rainforest something veiled, almost ghostly.

As already said: bird photography in deep forest, always against the light, always high up, always far away. Mockingly, I therefore established a rule: no angles above 30 degrees, no birds farther away than ten metres, and no light coming from the front. Of course, precisely the opposite is always the case.

Crammy played the call of the African Broadbill. I showed one of my videos of how this broadbill flies. Always in small bouncing circles, accompanied by a loud “brüupp”, it then settled back on its branch and raised the white feathers on its back. Wonderful to watch.

Solomon, our local guide, discovered this broadbill. Like Crammy, he has eagle eyes. I honestly have to say that beside these fellows I feel like a cripple. What they are able to see is unbelievable. We even observed the African Broadbill during its display flight. As always, that was an absolutely exceptional nature moment. Lovely.

We also had very good views of Red-chested Cuckoo, African Emerald Cuckoo, Yellow-spotted Barbet, Hairy-breasted Barbet, Least Honeyguide, Petit’s Cuckoo, Green Crombec, White-chinned Prinia, Dusky Tit, Bar-throated Apalis, Slender-billed Greenbul, Red-tailed Greenbul, Green Hylia and many, many more species.

In the afternoon, around five o’clock, we went out once more. We had observed barely ten species when the rain, accompanied by a cracking thunderclap, quite literally chased us out of the forest. Running, we made it back to the vehicle and drove to the lodge. As we fled from the rain into the lodge, a Long-crested Eagle sat high above in a eucalyptus tree, looking rather mournful. When I later went to my room, I saw that the Tambourine Dove which had flown against my window at midday, and which I had given a little water after placing it on the lawn to recover, was no longer there. I hope the cat did not eat it. Bloody cat! Still!

From the lodge we looked out once more over the immense Bwindi forest. Since the lodge lies high above the valley, we could gaze deep into this vast forested landscape. It was fascinating to watch how the clouds seemed quite literally to grow out of the forest. Cornelia put it perfectly: “Gorillas in the Mist, that is exactly what it looks like.” It was eerily beautiful.

25 June 2026 – through the Queen’s Park

Today we were even allowed a slightly more relaxed start, or rather, Crammy permitted us to have breakfast half an hour later. The drive then took us into Queen Elizabeth National Park. This park has the peculiar feature that it begins without one passing through a gate. Only an electric fence separates the park on one side from private land, presumably to keep elephants away. The national road, however, runs straight through the park.

Naturally, we drove carefully, repeatedly checking the roadside for all kinds of birds and looking up into the trees in search of the famous tree climbing lions found here.

Around midday we drove to Enjojo Lodge, with its wonderful view over a small lake where African Jacanas and Grey Herons were present. Countless Woodland Kingfishers sat in the trees. Anyone who knows them will know how loud it can become when their trilling whistles keep sounding from different directions.

After a coffee we continued on to Queen Elizabeth Bush Lodge. A huge, superbly coloured male Blue-headed Tree Agama was especially impressive and interesting.

In the afternoon we finally arrived at the lodge and were able to move into our chalets. Queen Elizabeth Bush Lodge belongs to the well known Nature Lodges, which have established themselves in areas where tourism is a little stronger, and offers good quality. The outdoor showers in particular are fantastic. Elephants and hippos move through the grounds, and in the evening one is escorted to the rooms so that nothing happens.

It is a little more touristy than what we had become used to so far, but that does not matter. The conversations of chattering tourists can also be quite entertaining.

Although we did not see an enormous number of animals along the whole route, here and there a few elephants and buffaloes, we were still able to observe a good 65 bird species. For the end of the day, that was already quite an impressive list. The coolest bird experience was the Ross’s Turacos, which put on a wonderful show. Crammy also said, “They put on a good show.” Four to six birds flew back and forth between the trees, called loudly and gave me the chance to take good photos of them even in flight. We stayed there for quite a while and afterwards photographed a very beautiful Yellow-throated Longclaw, sitting in perfect light, but they are easy.

26 June 2026 – shit happens

The day began, in the truest sense of the word, rather shittily. Apart from the fact that I could not sleep at all, because I had been allocated a room on the same platform as another bungalow and the lady next door snored terribly, I was also visited in the evening by dormice, which quarrelled, scratched at my tent and made crackling noises. The hippos grunted throughout the night, and every now and then an elephant broke off grass and branches. I could not sleep at all.

Apart from that, we had just set off when a White-browed Coucal was sitting on the road, apparently hit by someone. It was still alive, however. I said to Crammy, “Take it off the road. Just be careful when you touch it. Think of bird flu. Or shall I do it?” He simply said, “No, you do it.”

I picked the bird up from underneath, almost scooping it into my hands, and carefully placed it by the roadside, where it lay in the soft grass and would hopefully recover from the hard impact. I think it will survive.

Satisfied, I got back into the vehicle, disinfected my hands, but did not notice that they were full of bird shit. I then wiped that onto my trousers as well. The stench filled the vehicle with the penetrating force of an entire chicken manure plant. After all, the White-browed Coucal eats insects, and that shit stinks unbelievably.

At the ranger station I first got out, washed my hands thoroughly, took off my trousers and initially continued the drive in my underpants. I washed the trousers out in the toilet. The ranger woman even offered to hang them up for me so that I could collect them again on the way back. The smell, however, did not come out. I had to wash my hands several times and disinfect them again.

Unfortunately, we had still not seen the tree climbing lions by then. Instead, we found several very interesting birds, including lark species I had not known before. We also discussed an eagle circling very high above us. Was it a Booted Eagle or rather an African Hawk-Eagle? We were not sure, not enough time, ID on memory never works!

We stopped relatively early for lunch.

Important to mention are the incredible numbers of Uganda Kobs that one can see here. The kob is an antelope species particularly typical of this area. We were even able to observe a so called lek, where the males gather to assert their rivalry against one another. It was fascinating to watch them whistle at each other and occasionally make light attacks. Add to that the many females with their young, simply beautiful.

Equally impressive were the many buffaloes in the wet depressions, with Cattle Egrets sitting on their backs. Here and there we also saw elephants, though exclusively bulls.

And then this incredible landscape: wide, grassy plains from which enormous tree euphorbias rise, looking like gigantic cacti. These are the true Candelabra Euphorbias, Euphorbia candelabrum, in whose crowns the lions often rest.

Immediately after lunch we set off again for another game drive, followed by the boat trip.

On the game drive, eagle eyed Crammy spotted them: a lioness in a large Candelabra Euphorbia. I wondered: how can one lie in there? How can it possibly be comfortable between those branches? Behind her lay a male lion as well, though unfortunately he could not really be seen properly. She kept blinking at us, one eye open, one eye closed. Crammy simply said, “It’s the breeze. The breeze is very important in this heat.”

This made me think of the brooding heat in Etosha National Park, and of the fact that the trees there are mostly not suitable for climbing. Although I personally have also often seen lions lying in acacias in Buffalo Park in Namibia, in the Caprivi. So Uganda, with its tree climbing lions, is certainly special, but in this respect not entirely unique.

The following boat trip was then the absolute bomb. We saw elephants in masses, hippos in masses, buffaloes in the mud between the water plants, with Cattle Egrets on their backs, with oxpeckers on their backs, hippos in between and, in the background, more elephants. Playing elephants, rowdy elephants, elephants spraying one another with water, and behind them Lake Edward. Fantastic.

The birdlife, with more than 60 species, was equally overwhelming. From Goliath Heron to Pink-backed Pelican and Great White Pelican, all the way to hundreds of Pied Kingfishers breeding in the sandbanks. Added to this were hundreds of African Skimmers, Spur-winged Lapwings with chicks and Wattled Lapwings along the shore.

And then there were the many colours of the people in Kasinga Fishing Village with their brightly painted boats.

It was a boat trip which, in terms of wildlife and birdlife, can hardly be surpassed anywhere in Africa, I believe.

Cornelia does not speak much, but when she says something, it carries weight. After the boat trip she simply said, expressively in Swiss German, “Es isch schön gsi.” Hans-Peter nodded appreciatively. Nothing more really needed to be said.

But it truly was an insane combination: a Common Reed Warbler hopping through the branches beside a buffalo, while a Cattle Egret or an oxpecker searches for food on the buffalo, a hippo grunts nearby, and elephants trumpet in the background. One does not forget such scenes.

By the way, we saw an elephant bull with tusks that would once have made every trophy hunter lick his lips. The tusks even crossed at the front. Photographically, of course, an absolute dream.

On the way back, Crammy pointed out a Western Banded Snake Eagle. And I, typical Albert, only glanced very briefly and said, “Looks more like a Brown Snake Eagle to me.” Of course I quickly saw that he was right, but still enjoyed his explanation of why and how.

We also saw Grey Kestrels and several Grey-headed Kingfishers along the roadside.

My wife had asked me for a photo of a Marabou Stork, for painting, and I was dutifully able to fulfil that wish as well.

What a day. Truly, truly wonderful.

27 June 2026 – Let’s Get This Out of the Way

In the early morning hours we met for a short walk. Crammy had a lovely English expression for this. He always said, “To get these out of the way.” I found that very likeable. One could tell that he thought systematically, species by species. I should learn from this man!

We saw Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat, Grey-capped Warbler, Black-headed Weaver, Grey-backed Camaroptera and Green Crombec.

I then had to excuse myself briefly, because later I joked that the cook must have picked his nose while preparing my food, as my stomach began to complain quite clearly. Naturally, I hoped it would not develop any further.

When I eventually made it back, everyone was already sitting at the breakfast table, and after breakfast the driving day towards Kibale could begin.

On the way we made another stop in Kibale Forest, where we were able to observe several Uganda Mangabeys. Pleasingly, the animals behaved very nicely for the camera and offered excellent photographic opportunities.

Kibale Forest Camp is a very beautiful lodge, surrounded by a wonderful garden, where Olive-bellied Sunbirds were already dancing around to welcome us.

Around five o’clock we went out once more within the grounds. Crammy knew the different habitats extremely well and actually managed to show us a White-spotted Flufftail and a male Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher with its black head.

We were also able to observe Brown Illadopsis, Pale-breasted Illadopsis and, creeping across the forest floor, Scaly-breasted Illadopsis. Far in the distance, a Purple-headed Starling perched for us.

Six fantastic bird species on a short walk in this area. Kibale Forest Camp really is a little paradise.

28 June 2026 – Monkey Brilliant

What a day that was. If someone were to ask me which is more worthwhile, chimpanzee tracking or gorilla tracking, I would probably choose chimpanzee tracking.

We went deep into Kibale Forest. The soundscape alone, of cracking, singing, calling and squeaking African Grey Parrots, here and there whistling illadopsises, and in the distance a Red-chested Owlet, created an enormous feeling of appreciation.

On the ground were large elephant footprints, in which impressions of knuckles could be seen. Our guide pointed at them and said, “Chimpanzees are knuckle walkers.”

We were looking, however, for a very special species, the Green-breasted Pitta. At first we thought we would certainly have no success. We walked and walked and walked, until eventually Gordon said he had heard a pitta in the distance. So we went there, but it seemed almost impossible to actually get this bird into view.

At some point Crammy pointed through the undergrowth. There it truly was, always hopping, fluttering, and making a soft “brupp” before settling back on the same branch. This colourful bird, however, initially remained only a dark silhouette to us. Again and again changes of direction, again and again the bird flew off, again and again it disappeared. I already feared that, like last time, it would become a hopeless exercise.

Meanwhile, despite the chaps which I had tied extra tightly, tiny ants once again crawled up my body. I could already feel them on my back. Always me. The others did not have this problem.

But then, actually, as we worked our way through the thicket, Hans-Peter and I were finally able to see the pitta. And indeed the bird remained sitting briefly, then flew to another branch. We had to push through the branches again, and there it sat, ready for photography.

We had a good ten seconds to take pictures of this bird. Unfortunately, it was very dark, so the colours did not come out as magnificently as one would wish. But it was definitely enough for one or two halfway decent pictures.

We were euphoric with birding happiness.

Immediately afterwards it was time to continue with the chimpanzee tracking. I asked Cornelia whether she still had energy. She said yes, tough woman, and so we drove a little higher into Kibale Forest, where we immediately tried to find the chimpanzees.

Our guide, heavily armed with an AK 47, explained that it could take up to three hours to find the chimpanzees, but sometimes only twenty minutes. Jokingly I told him that we would take the twenty minute version. In the end, that is exactly how it turned out.

Interesting were the large Elephant Beer Trees, Balanites wilsoniana, also called Uganda Greenheart or Wilson’s Desert Date, and how bare and clean the ground around these trees was. Elephants love these fruits, and apparently they even ferment in the animals’ stomachs. I know this myth from the marula fruit in southern Africa as well, and I cannot quite confirm whether elephants really get drunk. More likely they simply have an enormous surplus of energy when eating these pleasant smelling fruits, which smell like home brewed beer.

We also saw the odd chimpanzee nest high up in the trees. Yes, chimpanzees build nests in which they sleep at night.

It did not take long before the guide pointed to the right. And there they were lying on the ground like corpses. At first we were completely disappointed. Chimpanzees with closed eyes. Every now and then one eye would open, someone would take a photo, and the eye would immediately close again. Hans-Peter later also said that at first he thought, surely that could not have been everything.

But it did not take long before we were called to another place, where a sitting chimpanzee was dozing away. So I first took pictures of a sitting chimpanzee.

Then the action began. The chimpanzees woke up and chased one another. Much of it could not really be seen properly, because the forest was dense and full of undergrowth. But little by little, more and more active chimpanzees became visible, eventually settling into their comfortable group grooming. Sometimes one sat with another, sometimes small groups formed, sometimes larger ones, sometimes only two sat together, sometimes one yawned heartily, and sometimes one sat high up in a tree. It was a magnificent show.

I even managed to take photographs of yawning chimpanzees. That is quite a bit nicer than photographing yawning lions, I will simply say that now. Perhaps also because it is just rarer.

At the end we even saw Narina Trogons. Or rather, I saw them, when the guide pointed upwards and we marched after him. Unfortunately, just as Hans-Peter and Cornelia arrived, they had already disappeared again into the canopy far above us.

In the afternoon we went out once more, simply to the roadside, where there was a nice flight corridor for various bird species. There we still saw Narrow-tailed Starling and a Grey-headed Nigrita. And indeed, right at the very end, the competent and dear Crammy conjured up a wonderfully exposed Narina Trogon for my guests. What a guide!

That was the perfect ending to an exceptionally successful day.

29 June 2026 – The Windbag

When we were on the road this morning, we stopped at a place where the trees were practically occupied by Red-tailed Monkeys. On the road, countless Olive Baboons were milling about. While we watched motorcycles, birds and passing doves, a scene suddenly unfolded that we will not forget in a hurry: a baboon ripped the shopping bags off a passing motorcyclist’s bike while he was riding by. Immediately there was great laughter, accompanied by just as much drama and commotion.

The road was surprisingly good today, and the journey continued through Uganda’s tea fields. Over long stretches this monoculture extended across the landscape and offered wonderful scenes of women and men not only cutting tea, some by hand, some with machines, but also carrying it in large baskets on their backs. I slightly regretted not taking photos of this, but we are talking here about hectares upon hectares of tea plantations. Very impressive.

At midday we stopped at a rather lovely lodge, where even the owner greeted us personally. Once again we were served a wonderfully hearty meal. So here in Uganda I am going to get fat!

My colleague Volker Sthamer, who works here as a professional tour leader, eats only one meal a day when he is in Uganda, precisely for this reason.

In the lodge garden, African Blue Flycatcher and Bronze Mannikin could be photographed beautifully.

Later we checked in at the Masindi Hotel, a hotel that prides itself on being the oldest and most famous hotel in Uganda. It leans heavily on the fact that even Ernest Hemingway once stayed here.

Being somewhat less informed in this regard, I asked my very well read and wise father-in-law whether he had read Hemingway’s books. He simply said, “Of course,” and added that Hemingway had been an old windbag who had only been to Africa twice, shot just three pieces of game, and above all drank too much. Instead, he recommended that I read a few other books. OK, that was clear enough!

The hotel itself, however, was rather mediocre to poor and very much past its prime, even though it had been highly recommended to us beforehand. For future trips we will definitely have to find an alternative here.

Since the owner of the Masindi Hotel is Indian, there were also Indian dishes on the menu. We ordered Chicken Tikka, and I additionally had Chicken Tikka Masala. The food was prepared in traditional Indian style and, I must admit, tasted fantastic.

The welcome was also an armchair adventure, as the manager chatted endlessly about the history of the hotel, but so quietly and indistinctly that nobody understood even a single word. We nodded politely and hoped for the talking session to end soon. The waitress tried to interrupt him, but he held up his palm to her like a stop sign and said, “I am not yet through,” and continued speaking undeterred. In hindsight, I would have liked to know what he had been telling us, but the day was too long to go down that road as well.

Afterwards I still tried, independently of Crammy, who was also trying, to find a few owls, as they had apparently been seen here before. Sadly, however, the hotel courtyard remained empty that evening.

30 June 2026 – Skylarking About

We set off very early. This time we carried our suitcases ourselves, as no porter could be found, and made our way to the famous Royal Mile. This perfectly straight track leads through Budongo Forest and received its name because it once served the Omukama, the king of the Bunyoro Kingdom, as a retreat and hunting ground. Later, during the British colonial period, the kingdom lost its influence and the Omukama was deposed by the British and sent into exile.

I knew from previous journeys that although the Royal Mile is praised everywhere, it is a demanding birding area. Very tall trees, lots of backlight, very small birds, plenty of shadow, and everything happening high up in the canopy.

The road leading there, however, is lined with bird-rich fields. We stopped regularly along the roadside and were able to observe numerous species, from Brown Twinspot to Dark-capped Yellow Warbler. These were joined by Heuglin’s Spurfowl, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Blue-headed Coucal, an African Harrier-Hawk flying overhead, Wahlberg’s Eagle and Brown-backed Scrub Robin. Especially beautiful were the Brown Babblers with their bright yellow eyes.

We also saw Variable Sunbird, Copper Sunbird, the beautiful Vitelline Masked Weaver, Black-headed Weaver and Compact Weaver. Added to this were Northern Red Bishop, Black-winged Red Bishop and Black Bishop. The Red-collared Widowbird even appeared in splendid breeding plumage. We were also especially pleased with the Grey-headed Oliveback.

Along the way, a West African Ground Squirrel, Xerus erythropus, darted across the track, and several Tantalus Monkeys were also seen well.

And yet we saw many more small bird species before finally driving into the Royal Mile itself.

The Royal Mile belongs to the Budongo Forest Reserve and is a wonderfully natural piece of earth. It almost embraces the visitor with its easily walkable, fantastic forest landscape.

Actually, we had also booked a local guide, but Crammy had generously passed him on to another tour leader. That did not bother us at all, because Crammy was the best anyway!

Compared with previous visits, we saw an exceptional number of truly wonderful birds this time. Right at the beginning, an African Pygmy Kingfisher showed itself. Afterwards White-thighed Hornbills flew over us, and Yellow-crested Woodpeckers were seen again and again. Crammy then discovered, together with his colleague, two Chocolate-backed Kingfishers high up in a tree. In truth, we could only recognise them by their large white breasts. At least one could still see a little bit of the chocolate-brown head.

Shortly afterwards, several Spotted Greenbuls flew in and gave us a fantastic photographic show, completely delighting us with the way they lifted their wings.

Hans-Peter, I think, was very enthusiastic, although he does not exactly show his enthusiasm. He is Swiss, after all :-). When I jokingly asked him to display his joy a little more clearly, he simply said, “Should I perform a dance here out of happiness?” Wonderful!

Incidentally, in the trees we also saw the tiny Alexander’s Bush Squirrel, but also the huge Forest Giant Squirrel, as well as a Western Tree Hyrax. I must honestly say, these observations thrilled me quite a bit. Seeing the tree hyrax in particular was extremely interesting, as I naturally already know the related species from southern Africa quite well.

Another bird that absolutely must be mentioned is the Forest Robin, yellow-breasted form. Added to this were Chestnut-capped Flycatcher, Uganda Woodland Warbler and Lemon-bellied Crombec.

Afterwards we continued into Murchison Falls National Park. On the way I still had to do some LeafLove Safari office work with the laptop on my knees, and therefore had little time to look out of the window. But every time I looked up, the view was fantastic: the especially beautiful Rothschild’s Giraffes here in the warm light, Abyssinian Ground Hornbills along the roadside, a few elephants in the distance and large herds of buffalo.

Eventually we reached Fort Murchison Lodge. Here everything really comes together. Large, spacious rooms, plenty of space, functioning water, very good service and, in the evening, a truly good piece of meat.

1 July 2026 – Nile, You River Full of Secrets

At 5.30 a.m. the waiter brought me coffee. At this point it is worth mentioning that the service in Uganda is so incredibly friendly and, yes, one simply has to use the word, “kind”. These are truly kind people, and one feels very humanly looked after.

Today we are heading out on game drive and birding drive. I am most looking forward to the colourful Nubian Giraffes, to Piapiacs riding on buffaloes, and to the magnificent play of colours in the landscape. This afternoon, we are also supposed to go on a boat trip.

The early starts do not seem to bother my guests at all. I allowed myself the luxury of being woken by the lodge with coffee. At the Nature Lodges, which are a chain offering a very good standard in Uganda, one can order morning coffee to the room. And that, of course, is pure luxury.

So I drank my coffee, stepped outside after washing, and saw the Albert Nile before me in the half-light. Jokingly, I had to think: What a beautiful name. The Albert Nile is the outflow of Lake Albert and from there continues northwards.

After a short breakfast, here too, as everywhere in Uganda, there is always the most wonderful fruit in the morning, I first stuffed myself properly with pineapple, mango, papaya and passion fruit. And of course one, two, three coffees. Then we set off on our game drive in Murchison Falls National Park.

I keep saying it again and again, this is one of my absolute favourite parks anywhere. There are seasons in Namibia when we have to be truly grateful if we see elephants at all. Here, elephants stand around everywhere in the landscape. Later my clients hardly even noticed anymore that there were elephants here and there. In the end we were only really looking for elephants carrying Piapiacs.

There are areas here where the Borassus Palm, Borassus aethiopum, grows by the tens of thousands and decorates the landscape with its rich olive green. Between them stand the most beautiful giraffes in all of Africa. This is the Rothschild’s Giraffe, or Nubian Giraffe. I simply cannot get enough of these giraffes. The old bulls in particular have the interesting feature that they not only possess the third horn on the forehead, which is very pronounced, but also two additional ones behind the two main horns. In other words, they actually have five horns. Add to this an extremely contrasting coat and very pale legs. How painterly this looks, in the truest sense of the word, is almost impossible to imagine. I always joke and say that if I take a normal photo here, I will probably have to justify myself and explain that I have not oversaturated the image in editing.

Everywhere, large numbers of Uganda Kobs stood around again. Beautiful males, often with raised noses as they flehmened. Many females with their lambs. And again and again one saw Patas Monkeys playing or simply sitting there. We watched them for quite a while. For nature photography, these Patas Monkeys are made for it. Sometimes baring their teeth, sometimes playing, sometimes jumping, sometimes running, sometimes hugging, sometimes reaching out their hands to one another. So incredibly cute.

And then, with their strange gait, the hartebeest appeared again and again. Crammy, however, said that Jackson’s Hartebeest was actually the wrong name. They should be called Lelwel Hartebeest. Basically, both are correct. Jackson’s Hartebeest is today usually referred to as Lelwel Hartebeest.

Along the way we also saw a group of mongooses. I discovered them in the roadside thicket. First one, then two, then three, then four, then five. At first I thought they were dwarf mongooses. But after a longer discussion, as well as some checking and looking things up, we agreed on Pousargues’s Mongoose, Dologale dybowskii, a mongoose species only rarely documented, but apparently quite common here.

Unfortunately, I could not fully enjoy my very last game drive in Uganda, because I repeatedly had to deal with flight rebookings. Uganda Airlines had thrown a spanner in the works by changing my flight times. As a result, I could no longer reach my connecting flights to Namibia. But thank God I had booked my return flights through Anja Badenhorst of TripTravel. She is extremely helpful, fast, and also very friendly and kind, and has now rebooked these flights for me for the fourth time. Thank you, Anja!

At one point, from my booking phone, I had to look up at a dry branch and saw a colourful Finsch’s Agama. It looks very similar to our Namibian rock agama, but is a different species. Naturally, like almost everything here in Uganda, it is far more colourful. Once again, nature seems to have turned the contrast slider all the way up.

At midday, as always, we had plenty to eat in our lunch packs, before the afternoon boat trip took us up the Victoria Nile towards Murchison Falls.

Suddenly beautiful music sounded. A few musicians were sitting there playing a wonderful melody on traditional instruments. Naturally, I immediately filmed and posted it. Yes, even I can post. I stood there for quite a while, listened, and afterwards gave them a well deserved, generous tip. Probably also because I know that musicians are generally paid far too little for what they do.

The baboons at this parking area drive everyone mad, by the way. They climb into vehicles, open windows or roof hatches and steal every loose piece of banana or every lunch pack they can get hold of. It is actually hysterical how accustomed they have become to people.

On the boat trip we saw masses of elephants and even more hippos. Large hippos, small hippos, hippos on land, hippos in the water, snorkelling or dozing, but all astonishingly peaceful.

On the bank we then discovered a Nile Soft-shelled Turtle, a huge turtle with a soft shell and pointed snout. I particularly enjoy observations like that.

Then finally came the elephant on the riverbank with Piapiacs on its back. Here we could photograph to our hearts’ content. Unfortunately, oh unfortunately, the tsetse flies were also numerous. Because of them, we could never remain close to the bank for long. It did not take much time before we were surrounded by tsetse flies. So we had to continue by boat, clapping and waving, so they would not get too much on our nerves.

On this boat trip, one sees Murchison Falls from below. One approaches them from the river side and gets relatively close. Of course, I always want to go even closer, but at some point that is the limit.

At one point the boats stop in front of a small island with a large tree full of African Darters, which also breed there. Among them sit numerous White-breasted Cormorants, and I even discovered a Village Weaver there. The boats stop here so that one can observe the birds frontally. It is truly impressive.

The other tourist boats were there as well. We, of course, had an individual boat trip and were the only ones on our boat. As so often, I then made my jokes about the “Rosy-faced Sun Worshippers” and the “Red-breasted Mattress Thrashers”, my tongue-in-cheek “scientific names” for the sunburnt tourists on the other boats.

On the way back we finally saw an Osprey, which wanted to carry its freshly caught fish to safety right before our eyes.

The cool birds Crammy showed us along the shore must of course not go unmentioned. Apart from the many different herons, the Saddle-billed Stork, the African Fish Eagles, the repeatedly appearing Malachite Kingfishers, even a Giant Kingfisher, and the numerous Pied Kingfishers, there were also Double-toothed Barbets in a tree. The most appealing bird of the day for me, however, was the Red-winged Grey Warbler.

On the way back to the lodge, the final stretch again followed the gravel road, which really is very, very bumpy. So much so that when we arrived at the lodge, I immediately said to the so-called welcoming committee: “Tell me, do you not have a road grader? Do you not know what a grader is? Do you not earn enough here to finance a grader?” White teeth flashed, and he simply said, “Sir, it is a process!” I laughed heartily. What a good expression, one that said everything. True, it is indeed a process. After all, everything costs money. And the road was not really that bad either.

In the evening we had further interesting conversations about coffee production. Afterwards I said goodbye to Cornelia, as we wanted to look briefly for nightjars and I knew she preferred to go to bed.

For me this was the last safari day. Because of my flight changes, a three day journey home now lay ahead of me. Annoying, but manageable. My driver for the next morning had also already arrived.

Unfortunately, our night search for nightjars remained unsuccessful. When the mosquitoes then began biting me incessantly, I turned into a real grumbler and said to Crammy, “That’s enough now. I want to go home. Besides, I am bored.”

On the way we still saw a Bunyoro Rabbit. That was interesting once more and a lovely ending.

Then came the sad farewell words. What can one say when a journey has been so beautiful, so successful and so smooth?

2 July 2026 – Homeward for the Weak

The next day, my guests still had a lovely sightseeing programme ahead of them. Together with Crammy, they took a boat into the Nile Delta. Crammy let me know that, besides another Shoebill, they were also able to discover many other excellent bird species.

They also had sightings of Banded Mongoose, Slender Mongoose, a Slender Chameleon and an African Rock Python. Judging by the photos, they had a really good time.

After visiting Murchison Falls from above, they then returned to Entebbe, from where they began their journey home that evening.

The long walk to the aircraft, I was sad. Sad because I see my family so little, sad because I had to leave this place… the warmth entered me, the sun almost carried me up the stairs to the aircraft.

At the bottom stood a steward checking boarding passes. I stopped beside him and said, “I miss my wife, my sons, my mother, but I don’t want to go home. I love this place so much.”

He simply replied, “Sir, you will be back, come home to Uganda soon.”

How right I hope he is.